It didn't start well. The only table available was either 6.15pm or 9:30pm. Gordo agreed, under pressure to do the early one.

Like all good threesomes, the chicken, ham and stuffing were well perfumed and gentle with each other.
The traffic coming out of town to Walkden, the hometown of Gordo's accountants, was terrible and the taxi driver was being a bit of a cheeky chappy en route, possibly maximising the mileage, but Gordo was too knackered to start an argument.

Apologies, readers, in advance for the pictures in this article; the Fat One left the good camera in the taxi. Which irritated him no end. So, the pictures you have are courtesy of iPhone. 

Ruth Allen, editor of Taste of Manchester magazine had decided that it was about time her and Fatty had a look at Grenache, neither had yet been and it had recently been awarded the best restaurant in the North West by The Good Food Guide, a reliable source.

Grenache is in a warren of one way side streets just off the main drag and is a more of a shop front than a restaurant. It looked, however, freshly spruced up on the outside, with the interior scrubbed clean with small  tables and comfortable high backed chairs in cream and soft reds, a contemporary hug of a place.

The pair were greeted with a big smile.

Gordo likes that, only a good back scratching can beat it. Apologising for being late, a good looking feller with a salt and pepper goatee asked Gordo if he was Rachel. Er, no.

It then dawns on Gordo that the PA had been booking him in under a cloak and dagger pseudonym. Maybe Rachel could have been a bit more ingenious. Huss, as this feller's name was, told Gordo there was no problem and had switched him onto a later booking. This lad is on the ball.

Ruth and Gordo were seated, served two cheeky sharpener G&Ts and were given a couple of cubed, breaded and  deep fried 'ham hock' starters on sticks. Gordo keeps on getting let down with these, deep fried or not. Too solid, poorly seasoned and bland. These weren't. They were bloody lovely. As was the side of piccalilli, a smooth affair with kick. A warm glow came over Gordo. Was this going to better than he had thought?

A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Three Stones, value at £22.95, was opened. At that point a text came through. The next passenger had found my bag in the taxi and had sent me the telephone number of the cabbie. The glow got warmer.

Madame, I love you.

Huss was at the table, telling Gordo that his choice of red was out of stock, but he could recommend an Amarone della Valpolicella as an alternative. This turned out to be a lush day out in a bottle. It's a bit heavy on the price (£44.95) but well worth it. As a matter of interest, the wine list makes its way into Gordo's favourites, many bottles that Gordo would drink on civilian evenings under twenty quid.

First choice for Gordo was mackerel (£6.75), beet root and (very) creamy goats cheese, with orange segments properly dealt with - see main picture above. Ooh, this was good. The ingredients were  top notch, tick, but the bonus was really thoughtful handling from the kitchen. Delightful and refreshing, the white wine turning out to be a good foil with the sweetness and acidity of the beetroot. 

Ruth took the asparagus and poached egg with truffled hollandaise (£6.50). The egg was taken out of the bath twenty seconds too soon. All else was trouble free and as smooth as silk. Good asparagus as well.

Grenache AsparagusGrenache Asparagus

Gordo's main was confit of belly pork (£14.95), a big bruiser of a portion, creamy, fatty, piggy and tender, beautifully seasoned, sat on a potato mash with sage, a large square of crackling (more seasoning here guys, please) and a cushion of cabbage and bacon.

Huss let the side down slightly, as a side dish that Gordo had asked for wasn't on, so he recommended the cabbage and bacon. One small slip. The sides were £2.50, but weren't needed, the portions are comforting and certainly the pork and Ruth's chicken (£15.95) wrapped in Parma ham were well complemented with the plated partners.

That chicken, by the way, was another well executed dish, cooked to the point where it was still moist with a stuffing making a welcome bed partner.

A cheese course was shared to help finish off the Amarone, five choices that need a little more care in the choosing. The smoked Lancashire was just like most smoked cheeses, rubbery and ordinary. More adventure here folks.

Also, with the cheese menu (£6.25), a note inspired by the accountants. 'Why not add some grapes,' asked KPMG, 'for just 50p'. Bloody hell Huss, you've just up-sold me a fiver on the sides you tight bleeder, you should be throwing the grapes in.

Puddings. It's not often that Gordo thinks: "Deep fried plums with sugar and cinnamon, come and sit on Uncle Gordo's lap..." but for some reason, Gordo ordered them.

Ruth chose panacotta with berries (£5.95). The panacotta was perfect, the berries a bad match, overwhelming the delicate creaminess with their acidity. But still enjoyable.

Back to them plums.

Scarlet Johansson is arguably the most kissable woman on the planet. Those plums (£5.95) aren't arguably the most eatable pudding on the planet. They just are. Smear a little cream on one, dip in the damson compote and go straight to heaven folks. Very, very horny.

Gordo's Pudding Of The YearGordo's Pudding Of The Year

Grenache deserves its award from the Good Food Guide.  There are matches for it, in the 'local family restaurant' top five awards, which includes Spire over in Liverpool, Damson, in Heaton Moor as well as Players and Amba in Hale.

But Grenache has a secret weapon; they have just imported Mike Jennings, a chef with a point to prove and an attention to detail that will reward him with more accolades in time. Them plums were his dish. This lad can cook, he is worth keeping in mind next time you fancy a big, blousy, tasty dinner.

Another bonus is a front of house team who are truly wonderful. Even the restaurant's taxi driver on the way home was a credit to them. And a tenner cheaper than the black cab. A lesson for you there, eh Huss?

You can follow Gordo on Twitter here @GordoManchester

ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE. 

Grenache, 15 Bridgewater Rd, Walkden, Worsley, Manchester M28 3JE 0161 799 8181      

Rating: 16.25/20
Food: 7.75/10
Service: 4.5/5
Ambience: 4/5

PLEASE NOTE: Venues are rated against the best examples of their kind: fine dining against the best fine dining, cafes against the best cafes. Following on from this the scores represent: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9 get a DVD, 10-11 if you must, 12-13 if you’re passing,14-15 worth a trip,16-17 very good, 17-18 exceptional, 19 pure quality, 20 perfect. More than 20, we get carried away.

Inside GrenacheInside Grenache