The Good Food Guide 2017, brought to you by upmarket-supermarket Waitrose, was published last week and we’ve since been debating its findings at ManCon towers.
This independently compiled handbook sends its anonymous team of impartial inspectors all over the UK looking for the best places to eat and drink from Tobermory to Truro, Guernsey to Glamorgan.
Each venue is given a score between 1 (capable cooking, but inconsistent) to 10 (perfect dishes, faultless technique) according to extensive scoring guidelines. Reader feedback from the general public is also taken into account.
Naturally we’re most concerned with the local entries, so we thought we’d review our own experiences and see how they compared with those of The Good Food Guide.
Below you'll find the 29 Manchester restaurants (in no particular order) which made the cut. You can also find the GFG's Top 50 restaurants right here.
SUGO, Altrincham
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “even in close and basic quarters, dominated by handsome but inflexible communal tables, it’s a flavour-forward, saucy-chinned success.”
What we said: “The ragu was among the best Italian sauces I’ve ever eaten, a dense tangle of beef shin, pork shoulder and spicy Tuscan sausage”
LILY’S VEGETARIAN INDIAN CUISINE, Ashton-under-Lyne
GFG Score: *LOCAL GEM*
What they say: “Inside it is basic, bright and cheerful, while the vegetarian Indian food is full-flavoured and terrific value.”
What we said: “Lily’s is an unassuming Indian vegetarian café in Ashton. It looks like a simple diner, a locals-only type establishment. But there’s cooking going on here that puts much of the Curry Mile to shame.”
AUSTRALASIA, Spinningfields
GFG Score: 2
What they say: “Small bites of trad sushi and robata-grilled items mingle with chillied-up tempura of softshell crab and courgette flowers.”
What we said: “The food at Australasia is devilishly difficult to pigeonhole. At the risk of over-simplification you would find a chunky proportion of the dishes here on the menu of many a chic Japanese restaurant.”
AAMCHI MUMBAI, Cheadle
GFG Score: *LOCAL GEM*
What they say: “ Mumbai specialist which has added outdoor seating for the alfresco enjoyment of street snacks and masterfully made curries.”
What we said: Review to follow
THE WHITE HART, Lydgate
GFG Score: 4
What they say: “Food here is ambitious but still aims to please.”
What we said: “I’d go so far as to say the experience was revelatory. The ghost of Richard Neat at the chef’s elbow perhaps, as he unleashed a fascinating eight-course tasting menu, accompanied by near faultless wine pairings.”
THE FRENCH, City Centre
GFG Score: 8 *TOP 50*
What they say: “it’s the six-or ten-course tasting menus that allow Rogan’s frontman Adam Reid to flex his muscles and show his talent for brilliantly executed modern cuisine.”
What we said: “The French by Simon Rogan retains je ne said quoi, the food from Adam Reid's kitchen always looks beautiful and the professionalism of the staff can be of the highest standard.”
THE WAGGON AT BIRTLE, Birtle
GFG Score: 1
What they say: “an ernstwhile pub turned comfortable restaurant, takes great delight in showing off local produce.”
What we said: “we paid up and we left, probably passing a dozen places between Bury North and Manchester South worthier of a Michelin Bib Gourmand”
EASY FISH COMPANY, Heaton Moor
GFG Score: 1
What they say: “The catch is turned into a multiplicity of dishes, but the simplest are the most appealing.”
What we said: “This was accomplished cooking coming from a minnow-sized kitchen slotted in at the rear of a blue-painted, slightly four square dining area”
EL GATO NEGRO, City Centre
GFG Score: 2 *NEW ENTRY*
What they say: “there’s heaps of atmosphere, and some effective dishes, to pacify throngs of customers.”
What we said: “The menu here is what Gordo would describe as 'English Spanish'. Lots of tapas and small plates, rather than mid-to-late evening big plates.”
GREENS, West Didsbury
GFG Score: 2
What they say: “modern British modes are brought to bear on roasted cauliflower with pickled mushrooms and truffled cauliflower puree and salads of beetroot and whipped goats’ cheese in walnut vinaigrette with cucumber jelly”
What we said: “Being one of the few quality meat-free outlets in the region, Greens appeals both to vegetarians and their flesh mangling mates who feel like a change.”
INDIAN TIFFIN ROOM, City Centre
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “carbs are speciality; huge puffy breads served with intense, almost creamy chickpea masala, elegantly slender dosas with excellent sambar, chutneys and chilli oil.”
What we said: “The drop-from-the-bone flesh was sat in a thick, glutinous curry sauce which was just right for the lamb. The rotis that came with it worked just fine too.”
LUNYA, City Centre
GFG Score: 1 *NEW ENTRY*
What they say: “Their sourcing is faithful and enthusiastic, making the extensive selection of cheese and jamón a shoo-in alongside bread served with rabbit-from-the-hat selection of oils and vinegars”
What we said: “this jamón is so addictive that you may as well hand over your bank card at the start of the meal and be done with it.”
THE LIME TREE, West Didsbury
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “its modern Brit bistro drill has become part of the culinary character of a fast-evolving suburb.”
What we said: “The restaurant has kept the standards up over the years, but the present generation have had standards raised several notches by the likes of The Rose Garden in West Didsbury and other places across the city.”
WING’S, City Centre
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “Dim sum is a star attraction, with classic steamed favourites like har-gau, char siu bao and sui mai alongside Vietnamese spring rolls and Thai fishcakes”
What we said: “The restaurant is comfortable but slightly formal, they try and spoil you a bit but the food remains nostalgically basic”
MANCHESTER HOUSE, City Centre
GFG Score: 5
What they say: “the cooking, while still complex, has shrugged off excessive gimmickry.”
What we said: “After a number of comments about some bland efforts, he is coming up with dishes that truly delight, as in the case of the snails and the turbot with langoustines finishing up as 10/10 dishes.”
MR COOPER’S, City Centre
GFG Score: 2
What they say: “here is a kitchen that seems quite at home with a range of modern European ideas but is unafraid to lob a bit of Asia and the Far East into the mix.”
What we said: “For these relatively humble prices you get extraordinary quality. Given the nuanced food, the flood of flavours, the range of textures, the aroma and the theatre, the prices are a real steal.”
TNQ, Northern Quarter
GFG Score: 2
What they say: “who could resist friendly, unpretentious service, a short menu of modern british dishes that play to regional ingredients and spot-on seasonality, and such kind pricing.”
What we said: “This is food as comfortable and comforting as a wearable sleeping bag.”
HAWKSMOOR, City Centre
GFG Score: 4
What they say: “mixed with a tub-thumping approach to British beef and the legions of fans love the ‘high-quality everything, staff, food.”
What we said: “Confidence oozes out of every pore of Hawksmoor. This is powerhouse food, delivered by a kitchen with its chin out and its shoulders back.”
YUZU, City Centre
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “well loved for its attractive lunchtime deals, Yuzu also runs an accessibly priced a la carte brimming with good things”
What we said: “It offers a simple canvas for a kind of culinary calligraphy that is never extravagant but has attracted Michelin recognition.”
ALBERT SQUARE CHOP HOUSE, City Centre
GFG Score: *LOCAL GEM*
What they say: “A characterful menu goes big on Lancashire butter pie, bacon chops and Eccles cakes”
What we said: “You get two courses for less than twenty English, three for less than twenty-five. It’s fantastic value; great for family lunches (they have proper food kids’ menus) because granny will love it, taking her back to when men were men and horseradish blew her knickers off”
VOLTA, West Didsbury
GFG Score: 2
What they say: “Modern European bistro food is the mood du jour, with small pates offering expansive variety as they crowd the little tabletops”
What we said: “It’s hard to know whether the food or the drink is the driving force. The menu is mostly ‘small plates’ that arrive when they’re ready, designed for picking at, sharing, grazing and soaking up the corresponding alcohol.”
TEACUP KITCHEN, Northern Quarter
GFG Score: *LOCAL GEM*
What they say: “A Northern Quarter stalwart, Teacup Kitchen trades on its lively location, stark functionality and honest, a formula that attracts a full house.”
What we said: “John combines his classic influences with Teacup’s homely qualities to create a comforting mains menu featuring popular dishes - the emphasis here is on attention to detail and the best ingredients.”
NUTTERS, Norden
GFG Score: 2
What they say: “Expect some sharply modern food with British and French influences”
What we said: “Both mains were smoothly accomplished but hardly challenging, which summed up the whole meal.”
BARATXURI, Ramsbottom
GFG Score: 1
What they say: “This is pintxo territory: ‘fresh tasting and delicious’ ”
What we said: “Small plates trickled out at an equable pace from the open plan kitchen marshalled by Joe. Some of these were outstanding – notably the ones beginning with Tx.”
SANMINI’S, Ramsbottom
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “the unassuming interior is neutral and contemporary, while the menu is sensibly short and focused.”
What we said: review to follow
THE PASTA FACTORY, Northern Quarter
GFG Score: *LOCAL GEM*
What they say: “The pasta is considerably better than the name at this simple, friendly specialist in the grittier bit of the Northern Quarter.”
What we said: “As the name implies the emphasis is on pasta and this is feisty stuff with interesting ingredients. All three I've tasted have been a success”
LEVANTER, Ramsbottom
GFG Score: 1
What they say: “there’s plenty to applaud, from sharing platters of cured meats to razor clams with garlic or salt co and chick peas.”
What we said: “We couldn’t agree whether the Fino or the Manzanilla was drier or which one we preferred but I’m happy to return many more times spinning the debate into a long protracted discussion and tasting session, preferably in a bath filled with Gambas pil pil.”
DAMSON, Heaton Moor
GFG Score: 3
What they say: “Damson continues to win local approval with its innovative cooking and genuinely warm welcome.”
What we said (Media City): “I've been to Damson on at least three occasions and tried both the a la carte and the working lunch menus. It's been a real pleasure”
PROVENANCE, Westhoughton
GFG Score: 1 *NEW ENTRY*
What they say: “As the name suggests, the emphasis is on quality ingredients, locally sourced, with various menus offering perhaps a too wide choice but covering everything from breakfast via afternoon tea to dinner.”
What we said: review to follow
Of course, we don’t entirely agree with their findings. We would have removed a couple of the places that scored 1/10 for cooking and added fantastic restaurants such as Umezushi, Evelyn's, The Fat Loaf in Sale, Brassica in Heaton Moor and Hearth of the Ram in Ramsbottom, amongst others.
As always, feel free to leave your opinion in the comments below, as The Good Food Guide invites public opinion, so do we...
Lancashire: The Red Well, Arkholme - 2 / Eagle & Child, Bispham Green - local gem / The Highwayman, Burrow - 2 / Hipping Hall, Cowan Bridge - 5 / White Swan, Fence - 6 / Northcote, Langho - 6 / Cartford Inn, Little Eccleston - 2 / Three Fishes, Mitton - 2 / Parkers Arms, Newton-in-Bowland - 2 / Clog & Billycock, Pleasington - local gem / Food by Breda Murphy, Whalley - 2 / The Inn at whitewell, Whitewell - 2 / Freemasons at Wiswell - 7
Cheshire: Alderley Edge Hotel, Alderley Edge - 3 / The Lord Clyde, Bollington - 3 / The Lime Tree, Bollington - local gem / Yew Tree Inn, Bunbury - 1 / Joseph Benjamin, Chester - 3 / Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor, Chester - 6 / Sticky Walnut, Chester - 4 / Nag's Head, Haughton Moss - local gem / Swan Inn, Kettleshulme - readers recommend / Church Green, Lymm - 2 / La Popote, Marton - 1
The Good Food Guide is available to buy at Waitrose priced at £12.99 (RRP £17.99). The guide can also be pre-ordered now at thegoodfoodguide.co.uk
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