IT’S BEEN exactly a year since Caribbean restaurant chain Turtle Bay opened on Oxford Street with an ocean of jerk sauce, a boat-load of rum and a booming reggae and calypso soundtrack.
"We’re not just a theme Caribbean restaurant. Or a cariacuture. We’re also not an imposing money-making chain. That’s not the Turtle Bay concept."
The punters eagerly formed a conga-line and filled in giving the chain a successful twelve months of business in Manchester.
In the main, many celebrated the arrival of a large Caribbean restaurant in Manchester. Compared to the shabby takeaways and vans with far from favourable service, most agreed that a polished Caribbean establishment was something we’d been lacking in the city.
As with any big restaurant chain, expansion is inevitable and the jerk-joint has now taken space in the former Ryan Vintage building on Oldham Street. It will open to customers on Friday 5 June with similar amount of jerk-fuelled velocity.
There’s been some disapprovers, however. Some existing Northern Quarter businesses believe introducing a chain restaurant to the indie fold will encourage more, ruining the long-established independent spirit in the area.
“Yes, we are a chain restaurant. We have sixteen restaurants throughout the UK. Yet Turtle Bay’s point of difference is that we style each venue to our surroundings – we want to reflect the area and the people," explains Turtle Bay's bar trainer Oliver Blackman.
"The Northern Quarter needs a Turtle Bay. We’re a funky, cool establishment. We fit in here. It’s great for those who want a taste of the Carribbean without have to book a flight."
£1m has been spent to transform the former vintage haberdashery into the new 120-cover restaurant. Similarly to the first Turtle Bay, it has been dressed with reclaimed and recycled materials inspired by both the Caribbean and Manchester City centre's industrial heritage.
Think stereos as wall fixtures, carnival floats for seating areas and a kitchen carved out of an original shipping container. Staying true to the 'recycling and reclaiming' concept the design team have kept some of Ryan Vintage's original graffiti - fans of the original building will be pleased to know the Frank Sidebottom image will remain.
"We’re not just a theme Caribbean restaurant. Or a cariacuture. We’re also not an imposing money-making chain. That’s not the Turtle Bay concept. We’ve kept some of the original graffiti in the building. Yes, Frank Sidebottom is remaining. We couldn’t get rid of Frank. We’ve recycled and reclaimed a lot of the original features in the building," explains Blackman.
Although builders were still screwing in light fixtures, on first browse the new space didn't feel too dissimilar to the restaurants we've come accustomed to in our independent quarter - major chain or not. It isn't a cookie-cutter chain fit-out and has been given it's own identity. Turtle Bay has a little soul, and from what we’ve learned, is committed to keeping the Northern Quarter’s 'cool'. It's not a Pizza Express. Or a Starbucks.
So what of the food? Will it still be the jerk-heavy menu we've come to know? Will there be ackee and saltfish?
"We’ve revitalised the menu," says Blackman. "There’s still the favourites and a lot of jerk chicken with our 'jerk pit BBQ'. The Goat Burger is great. We've also improved our pudding offering."
For many lovers of Caribbean food, the authenticity of Turtle Bay's menu comes into question. Can the restaurant do more than just jerk seasoning, or will it aim to reflect the Caribbean Islands plethora of colourful and flavoursome dishes?
"We try to draw influences from all of the Caribbean which of course draws influences from the Dutch, American, Portugal and Indian cuisines," says Blackman. "Turtle Bay serves Caribbean food – somewhat modified for the British audience, with British service. We have an extensive wine menu for instance. There's rum, naturally. Turtle Bay has over 40 selections of rum on offer and an extensive cocktail list."
The menu also includes popular and re-envisioned Caribbean dishes such as 'Trini Doubles', Rastafari Run Down (a vegetarian combination of butter beans, corn cob, greens,carrots, sweet potatoes, herbs and coconut milk, rice and peas and fried dumplings) and the favourite Curry Goat. The Jerk Pit offers nearly nine jerk spiced dishes - from grilled spice marinated jerk pork ribs to a whole roasted bream of escovitch fish topped with a Scotch bonnet.
So yes, more eye-wateringly spicy jerk chicken. A growing favourite in Britain and as the first UK city to get two Turtle Bay restaurants, a clear favourite in Manchester.
Turtle Bay will also be loud with Caribbean tracks.
"Music and food go hand-in-hand with Caribbean culture so we have a well cultivated music playlist with bashment, calypso, reggae etc. But of course, you come here to eat and have a conversation, you'll be able to hear each other," reassures Blackman.
Once the second Turtle Bay gets going it'll be interesting to see how a large chain will impact on the Northern Quarter. More interestingly, maybe Turtle Bay's expansion in the city will be the catalyst for more independent Caribbean restaurants.
Turtle Bay | Oldham Street | Turtle Bay website
Photos by @Emgol