OPERA Grill, the new 400-seater restaurant and bar from Individual Restaurants, has been billed as one of the most exciting things to happen in Chester since the Romans arrived. We went along to see if it justified such a boldly theatrical claim before it officially opens today.
Opera Grill hasn’t overplayed the theatrical theme; it’s been subtly incorporated into the general grandeur and the theatre of the open kitchen
There has been a painstaking restoration of this glorious Grade II-listed building and the drama begins as soon as you approach the grand entrance, which has been inspired by Greek architecture to include impressive white stone pillars, pediment and a portico.
After being greeted at the entrance, customers are met by an impressive full height wine boutique proudly displaying bottles from the extensive wine list curated by group head sommelier, Dario Barbato.
The restaurant itself mixes an industrial look with a touch of opulence; exposed brick and polished concrete floors meet antique brass, trademark Arabestato marble and striking burnt orange leather furniture inspired by French design house, Hermes.
Opera's dramatic entrance
The opulent ground floor restaurant, which has been named the ‘Grill Floor’, has capacity for 110 guests on spacious, comfortable bench seating, and also incorporates a central island cocktail bar. Opera Grill hasn’t overplayed the theatrical theme; it’s been subtly incorporated into the general grandeur and the theatre of the open kitchen, where just about everything on the menu is made in front of diners.
25 metres of counter-height fridges display the vast range of produce on offer including fresh and colourful vegetables, a cold counter laid out with sparkling fresh fish and seafood, as well as an array of impressive cuts of meat and dry-aged steaks prepared by their butchery team.
Neatly uniformed and composed chefs purposefully buzz around the impressive open kitchen, which boasts a three metre handmade charcoal and wood burning grill which sits between two feature wood burning ovens. Adjacent to these are two floor-to-ceiling fridges lined with pink Himalayan salt bricks where bespoke steaks, which have been prepared in their own Cheshire butcher’s shop to their own speculations, are dry-aged in house.
They describe their food offering as an ‘internationally inspired grill using outstanding ingredients’ with their two special wood and charcoal grill ovens at the heart of the menu, imparting each dish with unique flavours. Unlike their sister restaurant Piccolino across the road, Opera Grill isn’t built around Italian culinary influences, or those of any particular cuisine. The world is quite literally their oyster.
The team of chefs, lead by Executive Chef Kevin Wigglesworth, have designed a menu full of globally inspired dishes with an emphasis on fresh flavours. They have created a range of dining options to suit a variety of occasions. Small plates and platters from the raw bar, cold counter or salad selection have been designed for sharing, while there are a number of heartier main dishes from the charcoal grill.
All dishes have been devised to incorporate maximum flavour and lightness; you’ll find the freshest raw fish or perfectly charred meat cleverly enhanced by accompaniments such as anchovy butter, miso mayonnaise, ginger ponzu, chilli-spiked kimchi or sharply pickled shallots. We particularly enjoyed a beautifully presented plate of Swordfish Tiradito infused with citrusy Yuzu dressing and a light drizzle of heady truffle oil. Even fresh seasonal vegetables have been raised to the heights they deserve; our particular favourites being summer greens with an earthy sweet tahini and sesame dressing.
Two separate staircases lead guests to the first floor ‘Gallery Restaurant’ which features a timelessly elegant cocktail bar, called ‘The Music Lounge’, which we could see ourselves getting very comfortable in. Guests pass a stage area set for live music, including internationally renowned DJ’s, a house band on Wednesday evenings and even a Gospel choir on Sundays to accompany brunch and lunch.
The first floor restaurant also features an impressive south facing all-weather terrace with retractable roof, complete with its own cocktail bar.
The grandeur of this historic building together with its timeless interior and relaxed ambience is a glorious addition to Chester’s restaurant scene. Opera Grill will be open seven days a week for lunch until late. It’s situated on Pepper Street opposite its sister restaurant Piccolino.
Opera Grill, Pepper Street, Chester CH1 1DF - Book a table online here
(photo credit: @georgie_glass)
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