Our writers and staff choose their favourite dishes from July
Another month, another round of dishes that held our taste buds to ransom. The Manchester Confidential writing staff (and lesser-spotted species from the likes of social media and technical) share their favourite dishes from July.
Branzino from Amici, Aigburth, Liverpool (£26)
On a recent trip to Aigburth's Amici I was particularly tempted by the prosaically named 'a pot of mussels' but for the purposes of our dear readers went for something more substantial and Saturday night - Branzino, or 'pan fried whole fillet sea bass, cream leeks, pressed potato cake, mussels, cherry tomatoes and white wine sauce' (£26).
The seabass was cooked to the ideal degree, the skin brought to a crispy golden brown while the flesh remained soft and flavourful - cook a piece of sea bass for too long and it starts to bear no resemblance to something that was swimming about in the sea that morning, instead taking on the appearance of a flip flop after a night on the tiles.
There was none of that here - just a fish cooked with care and attention. What's needed next is always a good sauce. This particular sauce was rich and creamy, given a sweet tartness by the cherry tomatoes, all of which does well to both lend the sea bass a rich accompaniment but not detract from a fish that is almost tasty enough with a bit of lemon. But as I say, a good sauce is always best.
The mussels were a welcome addition, adding that note of shellfish that helps to imbue a sauce on the creamier side of things with something a little bit more interesting.
I wouldn't have minded the potato cake getting another few minutes in the pan, as I'm of the opinion that crispier is better, especially when it's coupled with a subtle white fish and creamy sauce.
All in all this was a more than solid main course when you consider that Italian restaurants could completely avoid the likes of sea bass and roll out the classics without so much as a raised eyebrow. I would argue that if Amici keep the likes of this dish rolling out regularly across their a la carte, and while we're at it the lunch menu as well, then it will lift it beyond the boundaries of your typical 'neighbourhood Italian restaurant' fare.
David Adamson @davidadamson123
Cacio e pepe in a pizza bowl, Lucky Mama's, Chorlton (£13 with pizza bowl)
As we browsed the menu, myself and Alanya were having a hard time choosing between the pizza and pasta dishes - they all sounded so bloody good. So, we did what any smart, independent young women would and ordered both in the form of pasta served in a pizza bowl. Yes, you heard that right.
Have you ever had pasta so good you want to lick the bowl clean afterwards? Well, you can give in to temptation and do that here and it won't be frowned upon. Made from the same dough used to create their fresh and fluffy pizzas, these edible bowls are the ultimate carb indulgence. I went for the pasta I'd been seeing pop up on their Instagram feed all week, the cacio e pepe, while Alanya chose the beef ragu.
My cacio e pepe pasta was an absolutely perfect example of what it should be like, slightly al dente with a thick and creamy cheese sauce and just a bit of bite from the peppercorns. Heaven.
Harley Young @Harley__Young
Seafood Platter for two, The Oystercatcher, Stanley Square, Sale (£60)
Sale shopping centre used to be rubbish, a graphic example of pedestrianisation gone wrong, a grubby tip of charity shops and fighting pubs. This was odd given the wealth around the place. The Stanley Square development has stopped the rot by introducing neat and tidy units filled with good operators. Oystercatcher in Sale is particularly fine and an offshoot of the Chorlton original. What’s also excellent is Oystercatcher doesn’t impose a Sunday lunch and nothing else on the day of rest. This is increasingly a ‘thing’ in hospitality.
This dish of the month hardly needs describing save for one hidden virtue on the startlingly beguiling image here. On this platter there are red tiger prawns, mussels, salt and pepper squid and, smothered by all those perfectly cooked and prepared goodies, is a whole sea bream of a flesh so rich and pure it would put a smile on the face of the saddest mourner. There’s chilli mayo and salsa verde too, which when the seafood is this good, are more of a distraction than an asset. The other main feature is the hispi, the ubiquity of which I was getting sick of, but here it has been chargrilled with great skill so the soft almost flesh-like interior comes into its own. Oystercatcher is a fabulous restaurant.
Jonathan Schofield @jonathschofield
Butifarra sausage with beans from Tast, King Street (£13.50)
It wasn't what I was expecting. A large grandad sized, griddled bruiser of a sausage from Northern Spain; it was a cruda which starts raw, strongly spiced, and in this case, riddled with garlic.
The haricot beans themselves had been lightly stewed with a deft touch of seasoning, and again, not-so-deft touch of garlic. Micro herbs and toasted hazelnuts were tossed into the mix.
The butifarra sliced into chunks, laid on top.
The dish came at you like a saltwater crocodile out of a jet-black creek. A hugely powerful, masculine affair that hits with a solid punch.
Memorable. It's from the Catalan restaurant on King Street, Tast. Basically, a restaurant that Hemingway would have included in a novel.
Try it.
Gordo @gordomanchester
Red-spotted toadstool from SAMPA at Calcio! (Part of a ten-course tasting menu, £58)
A humble toadstool or a fly agaric? Could be a homage to either. The globular mushroom I’m tucking into, to the strains of Toploader, is delivering astonishing hits of guava and dark chocolate. I’ve eaten Caroline Martins’ signature pudding before, but it still makes me whoop for joy.
A Northern Quarter sports bar is its new home – as the finale of a £58 tasting menu that typically showcases the flavours of her Brazilian heritage. It’s not Samba Soccer, though, on the Calcio screens, just the Dundee clubs playing out a 2-2 draw in their Scottish Premiership opener. There’s also some top-heavy Chinese gymnast securing Olympic gold at one point. We are sheltered from much of this by curtains and a floral trellis. It’s early days yet for Caroline and husband Tim in their own permanent place after a series of pop-ups (and a couple of Great British Menu appearances). Molecular gastronomy cheek by jowl with Madri and a burger – ‘Who'd a' thowt it?’ as they say in the favelas of Sampa (São Paulo).
By sheer chance Toploader gives way to ‘Sweet Caroline’ as the chef herself delivers that fun fungus – her take on a classic dessert from her homeland, ’Romeo & Julieta’. At its core a combo of guava parfait and jelly and Minas cheese, given body by a Genoise Sponge and a Brazilian chocolate crumb from Manchester’s top producer, Dormouse.
Quite a fairly tale ending – a dormouse hiding under a toadstool.
Neil Sowerby @AntonEgoManc
Honey Butter Ring from Leopard Pie at Kargo MKT
I was going to name the Korean Fried Chicken as my dish of the month from Bab K but I’d previously given them that esteemed honour and to keep things fair I opted for the other dish which came in as my joint favourite.
Now this wasn’t my order but whilst enjoying my Korean fried chicken my friend had ordered the honey butter rings from Leopard Pie. Now I wouldn’t say that garlic bread was the perfect side order to complement my fried chicken, but the joy of Kargo MKT is that you can have a variety of dishes due to the amount of vendors. There are no set rules, just go with it and have fun.
When this was placed in front of me, I immediately knew that this needed to be tried and thank god I did. There is no fancy way of describing this so I’m simply going to say that this is filthy, gorgeous. The flavour combo packs a punch, the three-day sourdough base with a drenching of garlic butter mash and chilli honey drizzle along with an overgenerous amount of parmesan is just filthy food heaven, I can guarantee you that once you try this you’ll be left wanting more. This dish is the perfect sharer, but my advice is order extra portions or otherwise you will be left fighting over it.
Georgina Harrington Hague @georginahague
Fish Finger Butty from Rack, Arndale (£8.75)
Manchester is a great place for butties, long may it reign. Last month I had one and I’m going to start by reeling off the ingredients; hand battered fish fingers, minted pea puree, tartar sauce, lettuce, white bloomer and BLOODY CHIPSTICKS! The chipsticks are a stroke of genius - they kind of bring a vinegar element without the inevitable sog. They also served it with a curry sauce but for me the sandwich alone was perfect and everything you’d need from a lunchtime bite. I often dip my head into Rack just after payday and they always have something new for me to check out. This has already left the specials board but I’m praying it’ll be back.
A bangin’ butteh
Hayden Naughton
Grilled Caldwell's Sausage Butty, Junction at Manchester Central (£7.50)
My prayers for a decent pre-9am breakfast have been answered. Junction is the new restaurant/café/cocktail bar which has just opened on the corner of Manchester Central (next to the Peterloo Memorial). It's open to the general public as well as event delegates and breakfast is available from 8am to 11am on weekdays and 9am to 11am on weekends*.
I'd had a tip that the sausage butty was excellent, and the list of locally sourced ingredients sounds impressive: Caldwell's sausages from Stockport, a Burford Brown fried egg, and a potato bun from Manchester-based Martin's Bakery. The bun was light and springy with a decent bite on the crust. The sausage is lightly peppered giving it a good depth of flavour - no nasty supermarket-style sausage whiffs. Burford Brown hens lay those special Clarence Court eggs with the extra rich and creamy golden yolks. They might cost twice as much as your battery farmed or barely free-range alternatives but it's well worth it to cover the cost of their gourmet kibble, golden wallpaper and hen spa days. £7.50 might seem steep for a sausage butty but the quality of the ingredients makes this great value.
Junction is in an interesting spot where it's going to be glorious on a sunny day, being in an elevated position with sliding doors that open up to give it a terrace feel. I'm looking forward to going back for lunch and cocktails next.
Martyn Pitchford @Pitch_Blend
*Full breakfast menu is only available Friday – Sunday during August.
Seabass with chargrilled vegetables and salsa, Dimitiri's, Deansgate (£9.60)
For my dish of the month, I’ve chosen the no frills sea bass dish from Dimitri’s on Deansgate. The dish was simply put together but expertly cooked, and at a price of £9.60, well worth it.
Served with chargrilled vegetables and a tomato-based salsa, it was a great dish to enjoy alongside the vast array of mezes on offer such as keftedes and tiropita.
The fish was perfectly cooked, with the all-important crispy skin well-seasoned and accompanied by peppers, onions and courgettes which gave a real hit of sweetness.
If you’re looking for no fuss, well-crafted Greek food, Dimitri’s has my pick every day of the week. The independent restaurant has been going for over 30 years so must be doing something right, right?
Sam Fairhurst
Gnocchi ai Funghi, Ristorante Salvatore’s, Penwortham, Preston (£12)
Back in my hometown for a family meal, I got to taste what may be a new favourite dish of mine.
The gnocchi ai funghi is pure potato power. Pan fried to perfection, and joined by a selection of wild mushrooms, the centrepiece of the meal is quality. The thought of dropping all pretence of civility and just grabbing handfuls of the stuff was at the forefront of my mind, not much helped my two year old nephew showing just how much fun that can be further down the table.
The gnocchi is topped with thyme and a little chilli, perfectly complimentary. Just enough of a kick to keep you on your toes and enhance everything without taking centre stage.
Of course, a generous helping of mozzarella to round out the dish to my personal preference really helps this dish bring home the prize. Every aspect made better by every other part, all fitting so neatly. It’s like poetry, it rhymes.
Salvatore’s may be the first restaurant I ever remember going to. Anniversaries, pre-wedding dinners, celebrations of all kinds I’ve had there. But I’ll still remember this dish and eagerly look forward to the next.
Jamie Kellett
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