POIGNANT and Schofield. Not an obvious association.
But my colleague’s elegiac homage to The Eagle last year was ManCon at its best - click here. I identified. I too had been treated like a hostile intruder at this back street Salford boozer but hung on in to savour the Holts bitter and the feeling that the whole experience was barely changed from my previous visit 20 years ago. Back to basics.
When they all crumble to dust or are subject to compulsory purchase orders, the only ageing ale-drinkers’ reservation in the city centre will be the Ape and Apple, a 'modern' Holts pub that never quite caught a 'modern' clientele.
I suspect the flat dwellers braving this new frontier across the Irwell are more likely to frequent the King’s Arms or the Black Lion – if they are not curled up on the futon watching Homeland with a thimble of Sauvignon.
All that may be about to change. Jonny, Rupert and the gang behind the rejuvenation of the Castle in Oldham Street have taken control of The Eagle, establishing my favourite Manchester barmaid, Esther, in the Collier Street pub.
Holts beers will remain alongside a wider range of cask and Old Rosie cider. It’s still a work in progress with much 'sprucing up' going on. We will investigate.
Meanwhile, The Castle has freed itself somewhat from the yoke of Robinson’s beer range. The Stockport brewery coughed up the cash to tastefully and coolly renovate its only city centre tied house, which is now to become its first multi-ale pub; ie. three of the pumps will feature guests – mellow and malty Wold Top Headland Red and Goff’s ultra-hoppy White Knight were excellent the other afternoon.
All of which suits me, since Robbie’s range mostly leaves me cold. Old Tom, of course, is a classic barley wine/strong ale – but, at 8.5 per cent, to be handled cautiously. Dizzy Blonde is a merely OK session ale, Hartley’s a shadow of a once glorious tipple, while the Elbow beer is just dreary.
Nice marketing
That’s a pity since Robinsons is making significant strides to modernise – with major boardroom changes, improving its food offering (the Red Lion at High Lane was a great start), a new brewhouse on the way 'featuring the biggest Hopnik in the world' (no idea, either)... and a new website, www.oldtombeer.co.uk, with a CATNAV system for locating OT stockists.
In Jonathan Schofield’s Eagle review he name-checked other ‘old school’ survivors – the Hare and Hounds, Mother Macks and The Jolly Angler. I’d add those Portland Street supping siblings, The Circus and the Grey Mare and the splendid City Arms off Princess Street. Still it is a dwindling bunch.
Perhaps when they all crumble to dust or are subject to compulsory purchase orders, the only ageing ale-drinkers’ reservation in the city centre will be the Ape and Apple, a 'modern' Holts pub that never quite caught a 'modern' clientele.
In there recently, eavesdropping on reminiscences of Cyril Washbrook and Colin Crompton, I thoroughly enjoyed the Holts mild. The Bitter, once as uncompromisingly bitter as liquid earwax, is less an acquired taste these days, but Holts Mild seems unchanged in flavour – refreshingly fruity and malty with a hop trap in the aftertaste. And just 3.2 per cent.
Cask mild, seen as an old man’s drink, is under threat. Hence the return of Stockport and South Manchester CAMRA’s Mild Magic promotion from April 13 to May 20. Full details can be found here.
It all involves collecting stickers from participating pubs when you drink whatever mild is on offer and there are ultimately prizes of emblazoned t-shirts and fleeces and free entry to the Stockport Beer and Cider Festival (Edgeley Park, May 31-June 2, www.stockportfestival.org.uk).
There are some pubs that are just handy. The cask beer isn’t well kept, the food choice is predictable, the staff don’t smile back much, but it is handy (especially when it’s raining).
The Rising Sun fitted that bill when I worked nearby off Deansgate a few years ago.
A long narrow corridor of a pub with doors on to Queen Street and Lloyd Street, it bore stoically the last vestiges of its brief fling as an Irish theme pub. Now it has been tarted up nicely with an improved cask showing and a regular mild, too. Black Cat from Moorhouses of Burnley is a likely offering. It’s a moreish dark mild with hints of chocolate and coffee, yet bitter on the finish. Oh yes, and it will get you a sticker.
Scratch me
