Harley Young visits the medieval city and enjoys a hearty meal fit for a duke
When historic buildings get given a facelift to keep up with modern needs and wants, often some of the charm and character that makes them special can get lost in the renovation process.
Thankfully, The Toll House Inn - an ex-toll house that collected levies from traders on their way to the town’s bustling markets - has been lovingly restored by Daniel Thwaites with a transformative £600,000 makeover, making up part of the heritage brewery’s carefully curated hotel and inn portfolio.
Last Saturday (23 August), my partner Dave and I were kindly invited to stay at the four-star inn and dine at its on-site AA Rosette restaurant.
From exploring medieval castle grounds to rummaging around quirky secondhand bookshops, to enjoying acoustic tunes live from the cosy confines of The Toll House Inn’s bar, here’s how you should spend a day in Lancaster.
Lancaster
Just an hour from the hustle and bustle of ever-growing Manchester sits Lancaster, a quaint city with a town-like feel thanks to its cobbled streets and grade-listed architecture. Famed for its markets back in medieval times, now the Lancashire city is full of modern shops, bars and eateries but still pays homage to its historical past. After all, how could you leave that all in the past when a beautiful castle, assumed to date back as far as the 11th century, overlooks the place?
A short walk from the city centre up the steady incline to Castle Hill will take you up to this magnificent piece of architecture that almost has the power to transport you back in time.
Complete with a series of imposing turrets and an impressive courtyard, Lancaster Castle is steeped in history and heritage. The courtyard and grounds are free to visit, but adult tickets for tours of the castle’s interior cost £9 (children under four go free).
After all that exploring, we decided to reward ourselves with a refreshing pint at The Three Mariners, the oldest pub in Lancaster (dating all the way back to the 15th century), and a spot of retail therapy at some of the city’s many independent shops, including Assembly Rooms Emporium and Atticus Books - a charmingly quirky and quaint secondhand book and record shop that throws up a few hidden gems if you’re willing to have a root around.
If you’re starting to flag and need a little pep in your step, check out Atkinsons - a trio of indie coffee shops with far more soul than your highstreet chains; you’ll find them on Sun Square, China Street (opposite The Pub, a fab little rock bar), and also up at the castle.
With the sun beating down on such a glorious August bank holiday weekend, we decided to take a stroll through picturesque Williamson Park and along the canal, where waterside bars were heaving with punters who were also lapping up the good weather, before making our way over to The Toll House to check in and unwind for the evening.
Checking in
Upon entering The Toll House Inn, we were met by a delightful, traditional-style tiled floor and signage written on glass in stylish gold lettering, pointing you in the right direction for the restaurant, bar and check-in desk; a simple yet elegant design that makes the entrance feel far more sophisticated than your average pub.
The ground floor interior compliments the building’s high ceilings and stunning stained-glass windows, with the restaurant and bar space being washed in bright white, olive green and dark oak tones throughout, simultaneously creating both bright, open spaces and cosy little nooks to make all types of visitors feel right at home.
Greeted with a warm smile by a member of the team, we were swiftly checked in and directed to our room.
Our abode for the evening was Room No.3; one of the cosy double rooms on the front corner of the building that looks out towards the street and canal.
Quaint but well laid out and with high ceilings that extend the space, rooms are simple, clean and have everything you could need for an overnight stay - some of which are also dog friendly should you wish to bring your pup along on your adventure (they’ll be given the full Thwaites ‘Waggy Tails’ welcome if they do). There’s also a couple of family rooms available for those travelling in small groups.
Dinner
Having worked up quite the appetite after exploring all that Lancaster has to offer, we made our way down to the restaurant and delved straight into the main menu; Dave starting with the smoked chicken liver parfait and I the pea and basil arancini.
Dave’s generous serving of parfait came with a drizzle of chive oil and pickled walnut ketchup on the side, served with plenty of sourdough for scooping it up with. Smooth and buttery, it went down a treat.
My arancini was beautifully presented, served on a bed of courgette puree and topped with pretty pink radish slices for an added pop of colour. The flavours were subtle but there was just enough going on to kick the tastebuds into gear and get me in the mood for my main course; a hearty portion of Cumberland sausages and creamy mash, topped with homemade crispy onions (none of that dehydrated, store-bought rubbish) and shallots before being drenched in stout and onion gravy. Absolutely divine.
Dave opted for a classic too, ordering the Steak & Thwaites Ale pie served with thick cut chips, roasted carrots, kale and red wine gravy. He couldn’t speak highly enough of it (in between mouthfuls of flaky pastry, that is). Despite having enough food on the plates to serve a small army, both mains were very reasonably priced at less than £20 each - a rarity for AA-rated restaurants like this one.
Full to the brim and almost ready to wave the white flag of defeat, we decided one dessert between two was the sensible option, ordering the poached apricot slices served with a deconstructed sponge cake and tonka bean ice cream; a sweet (but not overpoweringly so) end to a wonderful evening meal.
After finishing our drinks and enjoying the live entertainment, an acoustic duo that performed modern classics including the likes of David Bowie and MGMT, we decided it was time to hit the hay and retire to bed for the evening.
Breakfast
We awoke bright and early the following morning, well rested and ready to tackle a brand new day after a good night’s sleep.
Showered, dressed and ready, we arrived downstairs at 8am where the morning team was ready and waiting to greet us with a smile and a shot of ginger and orange.
The breakfast buffet featured a good spread of continental items such as fruits, cereals and pastries while the hot food menu covered everything from healthier bites like avocado and poached eggs on toast, which Dave opted for, and carb-loaded treats like pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, which I opted for - it was bank holiday Sunday after all. Both of which, paired with a large pot of tea, were just the ticket needed to fuel us well into lunchtime and beyond.
If you’re looking for an affordable, characterful stay in a place where the staff are just as charming as this medieval city, give The Toll House Inn a try. For more information and to book a room, visit tollhouseinn.co.uk.
The Toll House Inn, Penny St, Lancaster LA1 1XT
Follow Harley Young on Instagram @HarleyUpNorth
Fact file
Stay
Harley stayed in a standard room (priced between £120-£165 on weekends) at The Toll House Inn in Lancaster, located 0.4 miles from Lancaster station. The on-site AA Rosette restaurant and bar offers a variety of dining options throughout the day.
Travel
Harley drove directly from Manchester to Lancaster (1 hour), parking at the nearby Auction Mart Long Stay Car Park across the road (400ft).
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