PROMOTION

Although Ziya Asian Grill is found on Curry Mile, it is a totally different proposition. For one thing, it has a balcony for al fresco dining looking out over Rusholme. The interior is light and airy with an impressive marble bar that is a thing of beauty. This is not somewhere to soak up the night's excesses, eating at Ziya Asian Grill is an event in itself.

This is not somewhere to soak up the night's excesses, eating at Ziya Asian Grill is an event in itself

Even the specially-built tandoors are decorated with intricate copper tiles. It is this attention to detail that marks Ziya Asian Grill out from the crowd. Everything is tasteful and subtle, nothing screams for attention because Ziya Asian Grill is all about understated luxury.

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The cocktails (which are all £7.95) are expertly prepared and along with good selection of quality wines, they are a welcome addition to the drinks menu. There's something to please every taste but two of the standouts have to be the Bengal Bubbly and the Fig and Ginger Dakka.

The Bengal Bubbly is a fizzy fruity mix of passion fruit and champagne that is unquestionably moreish. The Fig and Ginger Dakka, made from rum, fig, ginger and lime, has more of a kick but it lingers pleasantly on the palate.

The food is based on dishes from all over India, but each one is refined and given a contemporary spin. The ubiquitous poppadum basket is beautifully presented with an assortment of crisps and shows the extra care taken at Ziya Asian Grill with every element of the meal.  The usual accompanying raita is replaced with a vibrant coriander chutney in verdant green – a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds.

The careful presentation continues with the starters which look almost too good to eat. Almost. The Hyderabadi prawns (£7.95) stand proudly to attention, each one coated with southern spices and as juicy and succulent as a prawn can be. The masala seared beef (£9.95) is a modern Indian-style take on beef carpaccio, with perfectly-judged spicing. It is a delicate dish, completely unlike any of the usual fare offered on Indian menus.

The main courses are extensive and just as skilfully prepared. Seared scallops (£11.95) are presented prettily, topped with dill and a sliver of red chilli but the way they look is nothing compared to the way they taste. Soft and melt-in-the-mouth, they deserve be savoured fully, eyes closed in ecstasy. The chilli garlic fish (£14.95) has a fiery heat, but the herbs, the garlic and the soft white flesh of the sea bass add a complexity and freshness to the dish.

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Meat is treated with the same love and care. Bharwan Murgh Achari (£12.95), a grilled and marinaded chicken fillet stuffed with aromatic spiced chicken mince, arrives emanating a heady  perfume and is a gorgeous fragrant dish that shows contemporary pan-Asian cuisine at its very best.

Vegetarians are well-catered for for with cauliflower melaguperratti (£7.95) – a light, creamy and refreshing dish from Tamil Nadu – whilst sides are varied and interesting. Steamed basmati rice (£2.75) is light and fluffy and grilled vegetables (£3.75) are a lightly spiced medley of baby aubergine, pepper, onions and mushrooms, invigorated with lime and herbs.

Because Ziya Asian Grill is a boutique restaurant with only 70 covers, rather than a vast hangar churning out  mundane curries, they can focus on every little detail. Everything is tweaked and perfected until it is right. If you've got high expectations and high standards, Ziya Asian Grill is the pan-Asian restaurant you've been missing in Manchester.

Ziya Asian Grill, 65-67 Wilmslow Road, Manchester, M14 5TB

To book a table call 0161 410 0125 or book online