'A comforting combination of stodge and indulgence': Tartuffe, Side Street, reviewed

My first introduction to Side Street was at the start of the year, at an underground club night on a semi-weird date. I entered through a side door all prepared to dance late into the morning enveloped in bass and darkness, which the studio more than delivered. What I didn’t expect was to stumble out of the party into one of the most sexily furnished new hangouts in Manchester, (or for my date to surprise me with the arrival of his ex, but that’s another story). 

Emerging from the near-pitch black studio in search of a drink, I was confronted with another, much better surprise that made me fall for Side Street Studios (as it was called at the time) pretty much there and then. Black and white chequered floors, low slung mid century furniture, warm little gold table lamps and big, squishy leather sofas all beckoned to me beyond the long, curved bar. I got my drink and hoped, at some point, I'd find a good excuse to come back under better circumstances. 

Fast forward a few months and that excuse came with the arrival of Tartuffe, a very good rotisserie chicken and sides pop-up opened by chef Gary Weir and Ruby Fryman. Here you’ll find the heartwarming classics you scoffed happily as a child, lovingly elevated into serious date night fodder. Chicken kievs, hash browns, macaroni cheese and roast potatoes all feature - but not necessarily in the way you’d expect. A little caviar here, a hearty sprinkle of Fontina and some sott’olio mushrooms there. You get the picture.

Housed inside a bar, co-working space and studio on the edge of Spinningfields, at the heart of the menu you’ll find larger plates of lovingly sourced rotisserie chicken that delivers it all: juicy, succulent meat, a flavourful crispy skin, and beautifully sweet and herby meat jus that keeps on coming. Served with half a bulb of caramelised confit garlic as standard, its silky little cloves just waiting to be plucked from their roasted casings, it’s fair to say that this is not your average chicken joint. This is a place for truly sexy chicken. (Amelia Dimoldenberg, take note). 

Gary’s on duty when I arrive and stops by the table for a friendly chat. We’ve met before, in his other role as Executive Chef at Freight Island. Tartuffe’s been open for a few months now, and I confess my visit has been long in the making. I’ve already pretty much picked out what I want, but as I’m still waiting on my friend Ben (who’s characteristically late), I pick Gary’s brain on his favourites. 

As it turns out, we agree on most things. The rotisserie chicken is a must, obviously. We discuss sides, and before I know it, he’s offering to make me a bit of a chef’s table, which I can’t help but accept. It’d be mad not to. If he misses anything I really want, he says, just shout. He doesn’t, though. I get everything I want - no shouting required.

As we’re chatting Ben arrives, nearly fifteen minutes late but still sooner than I expected. Not long after, out of the kitchen come various small plates. Plump preserved lemon and chilli-topped Nocellara olives (£4.50), fennel salami sourced from Westcombe with a pile of crunchy little cornichon pickles on the side (£10), and a warm sliced baguette with a fat pat of salted whey butter for slathering (£4.50) fill the table. Alongside, we get to work on a bottle of DOC Lago Vinho Verde Branco (£30). Dry with hints of tropical fruits, it makes for a happy companion. 

Snacks devoured and some approving murmurs about the salami later, next up are two of the side dishes I’ve been most eager to try: the miniature chicken kievs with parsley aioli (£7.50), and the caviar-topped hash browns (£10.) Offering a comforting combination of stodge and indulgence, the hash browns are wonderfully crispy fat-laden little cubes topped with a generous helping of creme fraiche and black caviar. They’re really no more than a mouthful, and frankly impossible not to hoover up.

The chicken kievs, too, tick lots of comforting boxes but still manage to feel fancy. These are fat little spheres, simply oozing with garlicky butter and herbs, their breading crunchy on the outside and the chicken succulent and juicy within. Served on top of a fresh parsley aioli that cuts right through the rich butter and chicken fat, they give me all the good feelings. I can definitely see myself having these with a few beers as a snack another time.

Onto the main event, the chicken and sides. Naturally, the half rotisserie chicken takes centre stage - as well it should, swimming in its rich glistening jus, with even more on the side for drizzling over an extra portion of crispy roasties. We dip in and out, veering from breast to thigh, plucking as we go at the tempting sides to see which pairs best.  When it all comes, we’ve so much food it barely fits onto our two-top table - not that we’re complaining. 

The star has to be the broccoli macaroni and cheese, crispy and browned on top thanks to a very generous helping of just-bubbling Fontina. A hearty Caesar salad loaded with freshly shaved Parmesan and whole anchovies make an impression too, as do a bowl of roasties cooked with roast chicken dripping and thyme. Split and dipped into the accompanying Parmesan black pepper and truffle-topped side sauce, they reach another level again. There’s more of that gorgeous chicken jus to drizzle on, too, served in a gleaming silver boat.

Still, as great as the chicken is, there’s one more surprise in store for the evening: an 8oz flat iron steak so pink, juicy and tender I assume it’s been through the sous vide. Served with a Cafe de Paris butter sauce and a furious tangle of vinegary wild mushrooms, it’s a sexy little steak indeed and leaves a lasting impression. 

Plates cleared, we finish on a sweet note with a glistening black forest gateau to share that boasts a ganache so shiny I’m sure I can almost see my reflection in it. Loaded with mixed berries, morello cherries and a boozy kirsch chantilly, it’s rich, chocolatey and everything you’d want from a good hearty pudding.

Despite only being open for a few months, Tartuffe has already been shortlisted for pop-up of the year award at this year’s Manchester Food and Drink Festival awards and it’s not surprising to see why. The combination of Gary’s accomplished cooking and the multifaceted charm of Side Street Studios certainly does it for me. This is elevated nostalgia, done well, in a laid-back setting that makes you feel right at home - and I’d like to see a lot more of it, please.

Side Street, 21-23 Quay Street, M3 4AE

Side Street is on Confidential Guides