The Confidentials team dissect the new offering from the brand formerly known as Sud (Sugo)
Having swiftly changed their name, menus and branding more than once in the space of a year, RIGATONI’S, formerly known as SUD (and before that, Sugo Pasta Kitchen) has received mixed impressions from those who have learned of the switch, announced just before Christmas.
Some, ready and waiting to try its latest contribution to Manchester’s food scene - a simplified menu with rigatoni being the only pasta served. Others, perplexed by the bold, red branding, likening it to high street names like Five Guys, Ladbrokes and Wilko (may it rest in peace).
Whether it’s a quick lunch on a Tuesday, a Saturday night with mates, or a takeaway, pasta shouldn’t just be for occasions.
With RIGATONI’s the pasta pros have changed their business model, ditching full-sized plates of pappardelle and other funky styles and shapes, their beloved House Sugo (which they’ve since shared the recipe for online for all the die-hard fans), and instead swapping them for freshly-made in-house rigatoni with a variety of toppings.
The brand has said the change will allow them to ‘build a sustainable business that allows us to serve the customers in our communities for years to come,’ adding ‘We hope that Rigatoni’s is somewhere that you can visit time and time again. Whether it’s a quick lunch on a Tuesday, a Saturday night with mates, or a takeaway, pasta shouldn’t just be for occasions.’
Today, RIGATONI’S cut the ribbon on their kitchen in Peter Street food hall Exhibition (figuratively, of course - I couldn’t help but put another pasta pun in there).
Not ones to take online criticism as gospel, writer Harley Young, publisher Gordo and a few other members of the Confidentials team headed over for lunch to try some of the brand’s new menu items.
Fried Mozzarella & Pesto Sandwich (£6)
Gooey, crunchy, and not stingy with the mozzarella - everything you could want from a deep fried starter. Despite being filled to the brim with ingredients, this flash-fried dish didn't have a soggy bottom (oo-er) and was a hit with everyone at our table.
Salami & Potato Crochette (£6)
The portion size of two crochettes makes the dish a manageable starter and the addition of the lemon wedge helps to cut through the saltiness of the salami. These are nicely crisped and seasoned well.
Grated Tomato, Garlic & Salt Focaccia Toasts (£5)
Refreshing, tangy and light, this isn't boastful but it does the job. Those who like tomato bruschetta will enjoy this.
Black Olive & Caper Spread Focaccia Toasts (£5.50)
A beautiful tapenade on a bed of fluffy focaccia with a drizzle of olive oil to finish. A personal favourite of mine from the 'snacks' section of the menu.
Quattro Formaggi (£11.50)
Made with fontina, taleggio, parmesan and gorgonzola, this rigatoni dish was creamy and indulgent without being too 'cheesy' - bravo, RIGATONI'S, for managing that with four cheeses in the mix.
Fennel Sausage (£13.50)
Made with broccoli Friarielli, chilli, peco and breadcrumbs, this rigatoni dish was given Gordo's seal of approval. He said it had 'depth of flavour with a 'cute', crunchy mouthfeel, deep umami and aniseed pleasure'.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (£7.50)
A simple yet well-executed dish, on the same wavelength as cacio e pepe. Though drizzled in oil, the rigatoni didn't lose its shape or succumb to the dressing and become claggy in texture. A great choice if dining on a budget.
Brown Crab (£12.50)
Dressed with a vodka sauce and tarragon, then garnished with breadcrumbs, this dish tastes as sexy as it looks. There's a slight kick from the spices used in sauce, which mellows out the flavour from the crab.
Nutella Mousse (£6)
You can't go wrong with a bit of chocolate now, can you? Paired with a dollop of whipped cream and a glacé cherry for a bit more pizazz, this dessert wasn't overly sickly or rich, but instead the ideal treat to conclude a solid meal.
The portion sizes have moved away from the small plates model that Sud was sporting just before the name change, but instead are a manageable size - ideal for avoiding waste and retaining a sustainable ethos.
The Confidentials verdict? Don't believe the negativity you see online. The branding might not have won you over, but the signature flavours and quality service they're known for is still at the forefront of everything this business does.
RIGATONI's Opening Dates
- Exhibition - NOW OPEN
- Ancoats - 6 January
- Altrincham - 9 January
- Sale - 10 January
See our video of Rigatoni's at Exhibition below.
Follow Harley Young on X @Harley__Young
Follow Gordo on X @GordoManchester
Read next: The Hot 50: the most popular restaurants in Manchester
Read again: From the Council Leader to Charity worker: My One Wish for 2024
Get the latest news to your inbox
Get the latest food & drink news and exclusive offers by email by signing up to our mailing list. This is one of the ways that Confidentials remains free to our readers and by signing up you help support our high quality, impartial and knowledgable writers. Thank you!
Join our WhatsApp group
You can also get regular updates on news, exclusives and offers by joining the Manchester Confidential WhatsApp group.
