Beautiful wine region offers rich pickings for Neil Sowerby

IT’S grape harvest time in the Beaujolais and I’m on a random excursion up from Lyon, less than 50km to the south. Since it’s lunchtime and all the local inhabitants of Saint-Julien have downed tools it would be rude not to join them at table. 

Plague and wars have taken their toll on this medieval gem. Of its castle only a tower, once a dungeon, remains near a 14th century church

Les Moblots’ bistro specials include that classic creamy veal stew, blanquette de veau, and with half the commune’s 689 hectares given over to vines a glass of Beaujolais Villages is de rigueur. Dish and vin were quietly perfect.

Beaujolais Led Moblots
Les Moblots is our Beaujolais lunch spot Confidentials
Beaujolais Blanquette Moblots
In such a setting who could resist a blanquette? Confidentials

So very French. Even the nickname given to Saint-Julien folk, ‘Les Grenouillards’ (they who look like frogs), matches our stereotypes. So too the silent protests against unpopular government agricultural policy we encountered along our route. Not thankfully manure dumping, just all the village signs turned upside down.

Beaujolais Vaux
Vaux – inspiration for Clochemerle Beaujolais Tourisme

But then passions traditionally run high in rural France. Just 9km north west of St Julien lies Vaux-en-Beaujolais, inspiration for Clochemerle (and still dining out off it). Published in 1936, it remains the ultimate satire of French village life as religious and secular forces clash over the erection of a pissoir in the square. In 1972, a BBC adaptation, adapted by Galton and Simpson and narrated by Peter Ustinov, cemented its comic reputation. Ten years later ‘Allo ‘Allo did its lumpen, xenophobic best to shatter any telly entente cordiale.

My own day in the Beaujolais ended with my recreating another fictional creation, Bilbo Baggins. Where else to spend the night among the vineyards than a barrel fit for a Hobbit? 

Beaujolais My Barrel
Oak-aged connection with wine country Confidentials
Beaujolais Barrel Interior
Inside my lodging is surprisingly cosy Confidentials

They’ve got me over a barrel in Northern Beaujolais

A glamping style lodging attached to a gite, Les Foudres Du Chêne du Py is actually a conversion of two foudres (giant casks); one containing a double bed, the other bathroom facilities. What is the French for quirky or spooky? It probably needed a summer’s night to appreciate, not an early autumn one with a damp chill. Still, courtesy of the delightful family who run the gite, I did get to taste their latest vintage in its rudimentary form, more nouveau than nouveau.

Beaujolais Robe Rouge Exterior
Sunset on the terrace at Le Robe Rouge Confidentials
Beaujolais Pud At Robe Rouge
A glorious pudding crowns dinner among the vineyards Confidentials

This northern part of the region is the prime Beaujolais wine country, home to the Beaujolais-Villages appellation and the 10 cru villages (Morgon, Fleurie, Chiroubles etc), each allowed to bottle under their own name. Some are at their best when young, others have the capacity to age and gain complexity. An interesting place to compare and contrast is Le Robe Rouge, a restaurant among the Morgon vineyards that also offers a more casual wine bar with bottles from many regions, but also ‘vins de copains’ (our pals’ wines). A rainbow and later a spectacular sunset added to the allure here.

Beaujolais Chaize
Monument historique with memorable wines Confidentials

Sniffing and spitting at Chateau de la Chaize and Domaine des Prévelières 

Of course, nothing compares with tasting at a vineyard proper, whether it’s attached to a chateau or a farmhouse deep in a valley. I did both at either end of the region. Chateau de la Chaize produces some of the finest Brouilly and Fleurie from its 150 hectares of vineyards, occupying just a third of the biodiverse property.

We arrived just as the vigneron team were sorting freshly picked Gamay grapes for some of their finest cuvees. If this is traditional, as you might expect from a wine estate dating back to 1676, the rest of the operation is state-of-the-art, centred around their 354ft cellar – the longest in Beaujolais. 

Beaujolais Chaize Grapes Sorted
It's harvest time and grape sorting by hand is important Confidentials
Beaujolais Chaize Barrel Store
The state of the art cellar at de la Chaize Confidentials

But it is its Monument Historique status that sets de la Chaize apart. The grounds of the Chateau (closed to the general public) were designed by André Le Nôtre, who also created the gardens of the Palace of Versailles for Louis XIV. You can combine a tour of them with a tasting of five wines in the 1771 winery for 30 euros. Ring ahead or reserve online. Chateau de la Chaize also has a boutique ‘wine embassy’ with events off the Place des Jacobins in the centre of Lyon.

Beaujolais Brothers
The new generation – Quentin and Gaëtan Morel Dom de Prévelières
Beaujolais Cellar
Their traditional cellar is a wine lover's delight Confidentials

In contrast, the Domaine des Prévelières in the south of the wine region is a more modest family affair, its tasting cellar positively rustic. That tag wouldn’t apply to its wine range – including refined Chardonnay and Viognier whites – even if most are designated straight ‘Beaujolais’. A fifth generation is now in charge, young brothers Quentin and Gaëtan Morel, who farm with a sustainable zeal just 25 hectares of vines spread out across the most beautiful corner of Beaujolais.

Beaujolais Oingt
Oingt is arguably the prettiest of the Pierres Dorées villages Confidentials

Feeling a warm glow in the Pierre Dorees villages

A five minute drive away from Prévelières is Oingt. It’s the only village in the Rhone to be classified as one of the ‘Most Beautiful Villages in France’ and is the queen of a chain of 40 hilltop settlements known as the Pierres Dorées (golden stones) thanks to the sun-reflecting, honeyed ochre stones they are built from. 

From its hilltop you can make out Lyon in the distance, but Oingt is a world away from France’s second city. Plague and wars have taken their toll on this medieval gem. Of its castle only a tower, once a dungeon, remains near a 14th century church. Follow a stroll with a Trappiste ale refresher at Le Coin des Bieres & Co. Less of a tourist honeypot is neighbouring Theizé and it’s equally delightful. 

Beaujolais Theizé
Theizé is another Pierres Dorées gem Beaujolais Tourisme

Neither of these villages boasts a contentious pissoir as far as I could tell. Since everything here is built in golden stone perhaps such a convenience hides its light. In the denouement of Clochemerle, years after all the fuss, the fictional village ends up with three. Well, a lot of temptingly fruity wine does get drunk around these parts.

Beaujolais Welcome Beaujeu
Beaujeu is the entry point to the region Confidentials
Beaujolais Huilerie
It is home to the Huilerie Beaujolais, for artisan oils and vinegars Confidentials

Fact file

For full visitor information on the region visit Beaujolais Tourisme.

Check out Neil Sowerby’s report on Gastronomic Lyon here.

Neil travelled to Lyon with Eurostar and onward from Paris with TGV Inoui.

To catch an early train out from St Pancras he stayed at the nearby London Central Kings Cross Travelodge, Willings House, 356-364 Grays Inn Road, Kings Cross, London, WC1X 8BH. His Super Room offered in-room Lavazza A Modo Mio coffee machine to the Hansgrohe Raindance 3jet adjustable shower. With a choice of firm or soft hypoallergenic pillows, blackout curtains, 32” Samsung Freeview TV and in-room hairdryer, iron & ironing board.

On his late evening return he stayed at Z Hotel, Shoreditch, 136-144 City Rd, London EC1V 2RL, just two stops away on the Undergropund (Old Street). A converted office building with 131 bedrooms. Z Shoreditch is situated within The Bower, a landmark commercial quarter next to Old Street roundabout. Brick Lane, Spitalfields and the hip restaurants of Shoreditch are within easy reach.

• Main image of Oingt by Mfrays