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63 DEGREES is timeless. Instead of chasing after every latest food fad, the restaurant takes classic ingredients and cooks them beautifully. Elegant and thoughtful, this is food for grown-ups. That doesn't mean dull. 63 Degrees are serving some of the most exciting food in the city right now.
Just like gin and tonic or rum and coke, snails and garlic are two ingredients that are simply made for each other
The foie gras terrine, the snails and the salmon and avocado tartare are some of the most popular starters on the menu and with good reason.
Served with buttery brioche and a pineapple chutney, the foie gras terrine has a subtle richness, it's soft and delicately spiced. It's almost perfect, but then again, Chef Eric Moreau is something of an expert – he's been making his foie gras terrine for more than 30 years. For perfect terrine, you'll have to see grandmère Moreau – it's her recipe.
Every last detail has been carefully considered, from the recommended pairing with a glass of Sauternes – truly a match made in heaven – to the pinch of salt which brings out the flavour of the terrine and the sweetness of the pineapple which refreshes the dish.
Snails are a French classic and the dish at 63 Degrees is a particularly refined example. The snails are generous and meaty and covered in a delicious garlic butter. Just like gin and tonic or rum and coke, snails and garlic are two ingredients that are simply made for each other. The tuile basket adds a satisfying crunch whilst the bacon lardons, cabbage and potato come together to create a more rounded dish. As for the parsley foam, it looks a little crazy, like something a savoury Willy Wonka would dream up but it adds a delightful freshness.
Snails
The salmon and avocado tartare is just as light and lovely, with an unexpected zing from the passion fruit dressing. What really makes this dish is the piment d'espelette. This is the king of peppers from the Basque region. Like a match, it burns brightly then it's gone, invigorating the avocado with a sudden fire that doesn't scorch the other ingredients or your tastebuds. Perfect with a dry white such as a Picpoul de Pinet.
Salmon and Avocado Tartare
Some of the standout main courses at 63 Degrees, or anywhere in fact, are the sea bream, the rack of lamb and the beef fillet.
The sea bream sounds straightforward – light and elegant, as you'd expect from a classic fish dish, but this one turns your expectations upside down, inside out and back to front. Despite that, or perhaps because of it, everything works beautifully together. The sea bream is served with sweet potato and ginger purée, carrot, mooli and, here's the rub, a red wine, beef and shallot reduction. It's an unusual combination but because the fillet of bream has been lightly pan-fried, it's able to stand up to the richness of the sauce.
Sea Bream
For indulgent richness all the way, it's got to be the beef fillet in its glossy, glassy red wine sauce. The lacy potato tuile is light and crisp against the beef which is succulent and as soft as butter. Enoki and shitake mushrooms are a modern pared-down take on duxelles, an echo of the classic Wellington.
Beef Fillet
The lamb, stuffed with apricots and accompanied by honey roasted pumpkin, is served pink and French trimmed as you'd expect. It strikes the perfect balance between luxury and lightness. The fluffy quinoa soaks up the lamb jus – nutty, rich and flavoursome. All it needs is a glass of Burgundy such as a Mercurey 1er Cru.
Rack of Lamb
The prettiest desserts come courtesy of Bisous Bisous, 63 Degrees' pâtisserie in Didsbury. The Gâteau Opéra is almost a work of art; layer upon precise layer of almond sponge known as joconde and coffee and chocolate ganache.
Gâteau Opéra
The macarons are just as adorable - sugar sweet pastels, smooth and round – containing all sorts of flavours from coffee, to pistachio, to strawberry.
Macarons
If the sound of these dishes inspires you to get creative in your own kitchen, you can pick up a Manchester Cook Book from 63 Degrees, Bisous Bisous or Waterstones, featuring a step-by-step guide to recreating the snail dish and the Gâtea Opéra at home.
Of course, if you want to know how they should taste, book a table at 63 Degrees.
