I WAS sorry to miss Negroni Week. Ironically, I was away in its native Italy – exploring Count Negroni’s bittersweet legacy by the tumblerful. This cocktail, most barmen’s secret passion, has become mine too in mid-life, only I’m not afraid to flaunt it. In comparison, most cocktails are drab sweeties and the Aperol Spritz a mere one-night fling.
No wonder at one point they considered devoting the upstairs bar at One St Peter’s Square to Negroni
Below, you’ll find a few of my favourite Negronis in La Bella Mancunia, but first a bit of background.
The year is 1920, the place the Cafe Casoni in Florence. The Americano is already a popular drink, but Count Camillo Negroni likes his afternoon Americano with a splash of gin instead of soda, and so that is how bartender Fosco "Gloomy" Scarselli makes it for him. Other patrons begin asking for their Americanos "the Negroni way" – one part gin, one part Campari, one part sweet red vermouth. Ice, orange peel garnish.
Count NegroniEver since, purists insist on the same holy trinity, while having doctrinal disputes over whether Punt e Mes is preferable to Carpano Antica Formula for the vermouth or if a strong, straightforward gin is to be preferred to a more complex botanical potion. But, of course, febrile mixologists can’t resist tinkering with the Negroni shibboleth.
Take Manchester’s Neighbourhood bar, which lists a bourbon-based Kentucky Negroni, a rum-based Island Negroni and a Marmalade one featuring marmalade vodka. Oh and, of course, a more traditional variant, Negroni Spagliato, adding prosecco. Pass on all of these, but I’ve no problem, say, with Apotheca’s clever twist, the Blood Orange Negroni (£8), which mixes Bulldog gin with Campari, sweet vermouth, blood orange and Spanish bitters.
Not that everyone’s a fan even of the original. Observer food critic Jay Rayner wrote: “I’m meant to like it because grown-ups do. I don’t. I don’t like its bitterness in the same way I don’t like having my corns sliced off. Drinking a Negroni feels like a punishment for a crime not yet committed.”
Punish yourself with these Negronis (just sad that Room is no longer with us – bar manager John Jones’ Chipotle-infused Mescal Negroni was true punishment!):
1 SAN CARLO FUMO
More than anywhere else across the Distefanos’ empire the bar is pre-eminent – like the creator of its cocktail list, Jamie ‘Cocktail Hobbit’ Jones. The itinerant bar consultant has reached the finals of a bartending competition with his Bulleivardier (aka Boulevardier) take on the Negroni, substituting bourbon for gin, but his classic version is a stand-out, too. No wonder at one point they considered devoting the upstairs bar at One St Peter’s Square to Negroni.
2 HARVEY NICHOLS
I had a wonderful afternoon in the Second Floor Bar with bar manager Karl Smith (since departed) and resident wine expert Rick Fenn playing around with the Negroni formula using Dutch genever gin and various bespoke bitters, but the most satisfying drink was HN’s own slightly gin (London) heavy but beautifully balanced, even with the presence of Antica Formula vermouth’s vanilla notes. Normally I'm a stickler for Punt e Mes.
Neil served a Negroni by Ben of Cloud233 CLOUD 23
Benjamin Williams is a rising star of the cocktail circuit. His master classes up on the Cloud are not to be missed, nor his playful, Manchester-themed cocktails. His mean Negroni is gin heavy and may use a cult new vermouth called Mancino. Just ask. It isn’t on the current list, but a cute cousin is among “The Forgotten Classics’ – the Old Pal adds a little Antica Formula to the typical mix of rye whiskey, Campari and dry vermouth (£9.50).
4 CANE & GRAIN
The upstairs speakeasy with the stuffed squirrels and Chesterfield the size of a battleship is the lair of Massimo Zitti, master mixologist and Italian, to boot. The last time I drank a Negroni there I’d already been on a mini Negroni crawl taking in Apotheca (see earlier), Tariff and Dale (simple and classic), Blue Pig (whose bargain £7.50 Negroni features Langley’s No.8 gin, Mondino Amaro and Dolin Rouge vermouth), so I’m a bit hazy what went into it, but it’s the best I’ve drunk in the city. Better than in Naples, Alba and Milan.
5 KOSMONAUT
Equal parts powerful potato-based Cold River gin, vermouth and Campari, Nathaniel de Ferne’s barrel-aged Negroni tasted mellow and orangey, but I prefer his Mescal Negroni, which combines Illegal Mescal, roasted pineapple with Bianco Vermouth, lemon zest and Cynar – this artichoke-based bitter a subtly different alternative to Campari. Does the whole combo work? Brilliantly. Is it a definable Negroni? The jury’s out for the Count!
Footnote to an obsession especially for True Brits, who want to try it at home: Seek out the Sacred Gin Negroni Kit, which for £49.95 supplies 3 x 200ml bottles – one each of London’s cult fave Sacred Gin, Sacred Rosehip Cup (a delicious red and bitter English alternative to Campari) and their Spiced English Vermouth, all in a lovely gift case.
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Rick of Harvey Nics does the business
