The Dolomites – look, no snow

SNOWBOARDING is my religion. Every year I make a pilgrimage to the mountains. The further away from the airport and the closer to the mountains I get, spotting the snow-capped peaks peeping over the horizon, all thoughts, worries or woes melt away. This is my happy place. 

So for me personally, the Alps have always been a winter pleasure. I look forward to layering up, flinging myself round the pistes by day and cosying up for a comforting carb-fest in the evenings. And then repeat. I hadn’t considered what the mountains would have to offer in the summer. 

Fast forward to June. Flying into Verona it’s then a two-hour transfer to Val di Fassa. Gone are the picture-perfect Christmas card visions – the mountain scenes are lush and green. It’s easy to see why they’ve earned the status of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Breathtaking. 

Canazei; great base for the Val di Fassa, below

Canazei is home for the next few days. It strikes me how peaceful these resorts are in the summer compared to snow season. Canazei and neighbouring Campitello make a great base for exploring the mountains. All manner of routes wind through fragrant woodland and over clear mountain streams. There’s every level of exploration available – from less taxing trekking and walking trails to scare-yourself-silly world-class via ferrata climbing challenges. There’s something for everyone. 

Heading out on my first hike I’ve pretty much got my gym kit adapted with some hiking boots. It gets a bit nippy up at the top of the mountain, so you’d be well advised to take a decent lightweight windbreak jacket. Don’t let the sunshine fool you. There are various cable cars and gondolas to reach the Dolomites and regular bus services to get around the valley. 

Alpine pastures

Catching the Ciampac cable car we’re on our way to discover the Ciampac Alpine Garden. Led by a local lady – she must have been clocking on towards 80 but my God she was nimble – we’re swept around on a whistle-stop tour of what the local flora has to offer. With beautiful scenery and wildlife in abundance this is one for the nature lovers.

Back in the resort we headed over to Dolaondes water centre. With water from the springs of the mountain this is the perfect place to unwind. The wellness part of the centre is fully kitted out with jacuzzis, saunas and steam rooms, but you need to leave your modesty at the door, it’s a birthday suit only policy. Dinner back at the Hotel Astoria allowed us to sample some typical local cuisine. Look out for the canederli – delicious bread dumplings. 

Dolaondes

For a more challenging hike the mountain dairy walk is fully recommended. In total it’s around seven hours out of your day with around five hours’ walking. Halfway along the route you come to a farm. It’s only open through the summer months, for when the snow comes in it’s inaccessible. 

Stopping for lunch here is the highlight of the day. Farm delicacies are served by the family in traditional garb. Home made polenta and a selection of cheeses.

Speck is a big local favourite

Speck is a type of cured pork I could just eat and eat, followed by a creamy yoghurt dessert and fresh fruits. Preferably sitting in the fresh mountain air and washed down with water spiked with sambuca. A little kick to set us back on our way. After a thoroughly knackering descent we packed up to move on to another resort. 

Levico is a couple of hours’ transfer from Val di Fassa, still in the Trentino area. We checked into the Grand Imperial Terme Hotel (below). Steeped in history with period furnishings and now a fine spa hotel, it used to be the summer residence of the Austrian Royal Family. With extensive spa facilities, an indoor and outdoor pool, there’s also a thermal bathing centre. 

Grand Hotel Imperia boasts a fascinating history

Taking a trip out from the hotel we headed to Lake Levico. This is the mountain equivalent of going to the beach. Bathers nestled around the edge of the lido taking in the tranquil surroundings. There’s plenty to do around the lake – boat rides, pedalos, water-skiing or simply going for a swim. A walk around the whole lake will take you a couple of hours. Cycling round the area is popular with lots of mapped routes to choose from. Don’t be put off by the hilly terrain – hop on an e-bike to give you a helping hand. 

There are lots of cultural spots to while away the hours. Take in the Colle Delle Benne fort tour or head over to Arte Selle, an international outdoor exhibition of natural artworks for a unique experience. A memorable dinner? Visit Castel Pergine. Fresh, imaginative cuisine coupled with a wide choice of Trentino wines, this is one not to miss.

If you fancy a change from a seaside holiday, Trentino has lots to offer – there’s so much more to the mountains than just snow.

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