Nothing Is Too Far From Zadar

WHILE Dubrovnik and Split are well established and popular destinations in Croatia, further up the Dalmatian coast, Zadar is slowly but surely coming in to its own. 

At night, the 22-metre circle comes alive, with its multi-coloured patterns presenting a trippy light show

The fifth largest city in Croatia, Zadar is an ancient place with a varied history: from roots in the 9th Century BC, then as a Roman colony, in the 15th Century the former Dalmatian capital came under the authority of the Republic of Venice and, following a brief period of French occupation, was ruled by Austrian Empire until 1918. It is now the sixth largest city in Croatia, with a population of around 70,000 people.

These days, Zadar a relatively sleepy place. The city is centred around its picture-perfect Old Town – made up of a labyrinth of marble paths that have been polished by footsteps over the centuries. They lead to the Old Town’s many cafe-lined squares, plus the daily fruit and vegetable market around the street Zlatarska ulica – and the waterfront, which is found within a few hundred metres in most directions. 

Zadar’s position on the Adriatic Sea means fresh seafood is the city’s cuisine of choice, with traditional restaurants offering rich platters featuring grilled fish, langoustines, calamari and mussels. Restaurant Bruschetta is one of the most popular dining spots thanks to its location close to the seafront, and its sizeable outdoor area.

A classic seafood platter  at Konoba Stomorica

A short walk away – as with everything in the Old Town – the winding lane Stomorica ulica offers a lively area to eat and drink, with locals and tourists alike drinking brightly coloured cocktails and cheap Croatian beers. 

 

Salt lake Mir in Dugi Otok’s Telašćica Nature Park

With ferries for both foot passengers (from the Old Town) and vehicles (from its Gazenica Port, 3km southeast of the city centre), it’s well worth exploring the many islands that run parallel to the mainland. We visited Dugi Otok, a 40km-long, 5km-wide island directly west of Zadar. From Sali, the long island’s largest settlement, we ventured to the Telašćica Nature Park, where the vigorous half-hour hike was rewarded with a dip in Lake Mir, a picturesque salt lake that attracts thousands of visitors each day during the high season. 

Zadar’s location also makes for easy day trips to some of Croatia’s top nature hotspots inland. We headed an hour’s drive south east to Skradin – the perfect entry point to the Krka National Park. For the more energetic visitor, adventure travel company Raftrek offers canoe safari or river rafting excursions – but we opted for the day-long guided cycling tour of the area (minimum four people, prices start at €40 per person). Our ride took in a pleasantly diverse range of scenery: challenging hills, crystal-clear lakes, award-winning vineyards, the 600-year-old Visovac Monastery and even minefields – the latter an unsettling hangover from the early 1990s Croatian War of Independence, which the government is understandably keen to clear up by the end of this decade.

Our 40km cycle ended with a visit to Krka river, a popular spot that features Roski Slap (main picture), a breathtaking series of 17 waterfalls in quick succession. A network of wooden walkways offers the chance to navigate the area, while the sizeable plunge pool at the base of the falls is the perfect place to take a dip. Even in early May the water temperature was reasonable and helped revive us after our long, hard day on the saddle.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

North west of Zadar is Plitvice Lakes National Park. The 90-minute drive offers highlights aplenty – all sweeping mountain roads, plus Sveti Rok Tunnel, the second longest tunnel in Croatia at 5,679 metres. Plitvice itself is a huge park made up of 16 lakes interconnected by waterfalls, offering luscious woodland scenery to those who make the journey. A range of itineraries are available to visitors, suggesting routes based on length of stay – from an hour or two through to a full day exploring the depths of the park. 

Plitvice is home to brown bears, otters, wolves, wild boar, lynx and rare species of bird including black storks and mountain woodpeckers - but during our visit we made do with noisy toads and colourful lizards. Still, the sprawling parkland – again, connected by an impressive maze of wooden walkways – is certainly worth the trip.

Fruit and vegetable market in Zadar’s Old Town

While the small scale of Zadar’s Old Town means it’s very easy to explore on bike or by foot, getting out further afield is best done by car - or ferry, for the network of islands. The cost for both is reasonable, as with most things in Croatia: a five-day car hire set us back around £100, while the ferry to Dugi Otok came in at under £3 per person each way. 

Though we visited in early May, just out of high season, the weather was pleasant, with blue skies, a refreshing breeze and no stifling heat. This time of year also meant the sights and attractions were far from their busiest, with locals explaining that high season for them typically runs from late May through to August.