Hunting Down Haute Cuisine In The Dolomites

ON safari with a difference, we bagged the Big Five.  No tigers or lions to be seen _ just a massive mechanical snow cat. Instead of tracking the Big Five animals under a burning African sun the Big Five in our sights were top chefs cooking up a snowstorm in an Italian ski resort.

'With finest food, wonderful wines and mountain views to take your breath away, topped by a colourful accordionist serenading with song, safaris don’t get better than Alta Badia’s annual celebration'

To hunt down the crème de la crème of chefs in deepest Dolomiti mountain terrain we skied, we snow-shoed, we were hauled up slippery slopes on ropes behind a snowmobile, we juddered in the cabin of a snow cat grooming giant, we took gondola rides – anything for a glimpse of our prey. And for a taste of their dishes.

It's a Snow Cat

We followed our noses towards the irresistible smells of simmering sauces, in search of the perfect pasta (al dente, of course), the tangiest tartar of shrimp, mouth-watering meats – smoked pork, venison, braised lamb, beef – onion fondue and crunchy chanterelles.

We discovered ancient Italian culinary traditions, tasting original dishes in mountain huts as five Michelin-starred chefs dazzled and delighted with their modern twists on old recipes.

And the pinnacle of our gourmet safari in Alta Badia was eating the spoils of our hunt in welcoming mountain huts, meeting the Big Five as they prepared their dishes, and savouring South Tyrolean wines served by dashing sommeliers. All with a clear conscience as we burned off calories between courses.

Matteo's bean broth; below the young star relaxes with a wine

Where else could you sample such sumptuous dishes for around 50 euros?  In all, 14 mountain huts are offering dishes prepared by the starred chefs until April 12, 2015. It was hard to choose a favourite between Norbert Niederkofler’s sweetcorn cream and braised lamb shank, cooked at the Col Alt Hut and the hearty bean broth, crunchy chips, boiled cabbage and lemon shrimp tartar prepared by Matteo Metullio, Italy’s youngest Michelin starred chef, at the Piz Arlara hut. 

Not to mention Otto Pitscheider’s beef carpaccio with turnip and parsley cream at the Bamby Hut, Claudio Sadler’s cod escalope in Prosecco with polenta at I Tabla and Giancarlo Morelli’s buckwheat tortellino with Bitto cheese and smoked onion fondue at Bioch hut.

Giancarlo's tortellini to go; below, an array of Bitto cheeses

Not surprisingly, the journey back down to the valley was more safely navigated without skis or boards.  There was plenty of time to ski Alta Badia’s runs the next day, flattered by the easy blues, attacking more challenging reds and, in my case, avoiding the tiny number of scary blacks. This is ideal family skiing with low-key night life. If you crave more action the neighbouring villages of Corvara and La Villa are livelier, and buzzing Cortina is only a 30-minute drive away.

Riding the snowmobile; below, let the skiing begin

We stayed in San Cassiano, a charming and stylish village in one of the four Ladin valleys, with access to the vast Dolomiti Superski area – world largest ski circus, claiming 1220 km of marked pistes. Its vast jagged rock stacks, dramatic peaks and unique geology have been recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and, thanks to its remoteness, the traditions, culture and cuisine survive.

Ladin valley gastronomy has roots in traditional peasant cookery, mixed with Mediterranean flavours and daily deliveries of fresh fish from Venice.

Hotel Gran Paradiso is set in spectacular surroundings

Skiing in Italy is inextricably linked with good food.  There was no a better start to the day than watching a rosy sunrise bathing the spiky Dolomites as pink as coral from my balcony of the classy 4 star Hotel Gran Paradiso  and anticipating breakfast on the slopes.

Powder Byrne, at the luxury end of the ski market with over 35 years’ expertise, arranged a piste-basher ride up the mountain for an energy-boosting breakfast at the Las Vegas refuge so we could ski on virgin snow before the lifts opened.

Non-skiers have a host of activities to choose from: skating, 80km of signposted paths for Nordic walking and hiking, sledging, skittles on ice, sleigh rides, ice climbing.

The pool at the Hotel San Cassiano

My favourite: chilling in the hotel’s splendid spa with panoramic swimming pool, sweltering sauna and steaming aromarium to ease weary bones and stiff muscles.

My friends insisted on a post-ski massage every afternoon and positively bounded with energy for the bright lights of the après-ski disco at the Toccami bar opposite the elegant La Perla with its tempting teatime treats of hot chocolate and sweet strudels. And non-skiers can enjoy the gastro-safari, too. With finest food, wonderful wines and mountain views to take your breath away, topped by a colourful accordionist serenading with song, safaris don’t get better than Alta Badia’s annual celebration where sleigh bells and lunch bells chime in harmony.

One of our favourite restaurants in Venice, below

A fitting finale to a gourmand trip to the mountains was a boat trip to a superb seafood feast at Ristoteca Oniga in magical Venice, veiled in winter mists and mystique, before a speedy water-taxi transfer to Marco Polo airport. Now that’s style.