SIGTRYGG II Silkbeard Olafsson is quite a mouthful. No wonder this 11th century Norse king of Dublin gets shortened to Sitric. He reigned for 46 years until his abdication and got up to lots of plundering and axe-brandishing in his youth before becoming a patron of the arts and founding Christ Church Cathedral in the city. Oh, those reformed hell-raisers.
He sounds like a man who put away a lot of meat, but I may be mistaken. Perhaps he feasted regularly on the lobsters of Balscadden Bay – though scadan in Irish means herring, so perhaps they were this warrior’s teeming staple.
Sitric dining roomKing Sitric, the restaurant with rooms named after him, looks out over the Bay on the south east corner of Howth harbour, around a headland to the north of Dublin. It has been run for 40 years by Aidan and Joan MacManus, staunch champions of local, sustainable seafood. With the Irish Sea so close (skirt the Martello tower and it’s lapping against the East Pier) it makes sense and from the light-filled first floor dining room Joan points out the boat that will be bringing in the lobster for tonight’s dinner. It will be the best lobster of my crustacean-craving life but more of that anon.
Howth harbour with Irish Eye in the backgroundHowth as a destination had been a matter of convenience, handy for Dublin Airport after a spring Irish road-trip that had taken in Yeats Country, the Aran Islands and a huge sweep of the romantic west coast. Would we just be marking time on the eve of our departure? Far from it. Howth is an enchanting destination in its own right, but also a perfect base, 25 minutes by DART commuter train, to explore Dublin and then retrench to a calmer haven when it all gets too hectic.
Granted our first impressions of this commercial fishing port turned resort and posh suburb were blessed by brilliant sunshine, the yachts gleaming in their moorings by the East Pier; The West Pier is more commercial dockyard with a parade of fish merchants and smokehouses the equal of any and some fine seafood restaurants.
Lobster at King Sitric; below, the toothsome turbot
The best in town remains the King Sitric, with the advantage of eight sea-facing rooms named after lighthouses – Rockabill, Baily, Kish, Fastnet and so on. All very nautical and nicely appointed. During our stay chef/proprietor Aidan was away in Kinsale – on a fishing trip, what else? His kitchen team did us proud, my lobster grilled and served in a Lawyer’s Sauce, my wife’s turbot equally exquisite, accompanied by a white Burgundy from a well thought out, French-heavy wine list. A simpler Hugel Alsace Pinot Blanc from the ground-floor cafe-bar run by the MacManus’s son Declan was fabulous value at 25€.
Our initial plan had been to take a boat trip out to Ireland’s Eye, a small, uninhabited island with an eight century monastic ruin and a further Martello Tower but after a long, dry spring gorse fires had blackened a large chunk.
Hopefully this hasn’t caused any long-term damage to its nature reserve, home to guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, gulls and gannets.
Baily LighthouseTo go further afield Dublin Bay Cruises run 75-minute sea trips between Howth and Dunlaoghaire, atkijg in the likes of the James Joyce Tower, a Martello tower where James Joyce once spent six nights, and the seal colony of Dalkey Island,.
There’s lots to occupy you on the mainland. There’s an eclectic little market, food and collectibles, next to Howth’s DART station. Ten minutes away is Howth Castle and glorious grounds – home to a 10-metre high hedge and the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey with its spooky graveyard. Nearby is the National Transport Museum and the quirkier Ye Olde Hurdy Gurdy Radio Museum, open since 2003 displaying a vast collection of vintage radios, gramophones and related paraphernalia.
After a brisk clifftop loop walk on the Sunday morning, taking in the Baily Lighthouse and Howth Summit with its stupendous views across Dublin, we were ready for a fish lunch.
Dover sole at Aqua; below their Carlingford Lough oysters
We were spoiled for choice but eventually opted for Aqua, a sleek modern dining space slotted into the original Howth Club near the end of the West Pier. Its floor to ceiling windows offer a serious sea experience with gull swooping by as you dine. A bottle of Picpoul de Pinet, oysters from Carlingford Lough, Dover Sole on the bone a la Meuniere and a room full of happy punters. Fabulous. Now for the airport.
Aqua – built along sleek lines; below its live lobster tank
Fact file
Neil Sowerby flew from Manchester to Dublin with Aer Lingus.
He hired a car from Hertz. Howth is a 20 minute drive from the Airport and 25 minutes on the DART coastal rail line from Dublin city centre, 3.15€ each way.
He stayed and dined at the King Sitric, East Pier, Howth. +353 1 832 5235. Double rooms from 150€ It is a member of Ireland’s Blue Books, a collection of unique country houses, historic hotels, manor houses, castles and restaurants across the country. Look out for their special offers.
He lunched at Aqua restaurant, 1 West Pier, Howth. +353 1 832 0690,
For a night out with live music Howth’s best pubs are the Abbey Tavern and the Bloody Stream.
For Dublin tourism information visit this link.
