Steph Whalley gets a taste of Mexican street food in Wirral
Let’s taco ‘bout Tahona! Sorry, I just really needed to get that out my system before we go any further and then I promise there won’t be any more awful Mexican food puns. That would just be silly con carne. Okay, I really am done now.
Quite the departure from what this straight-laced little town is normally used to.
I’m pretty bloody excited about Tahona. Owned by the local lads behind Wylde and Lateral, this new Mexican bar and restaurant in Heswall, on the Wirral (yes, on), is quite the departure from what this straight-laced little town is normally used to.
It’s about half full which, for a Sunday, ain’t half bad. We’ve been sat down by a beaming host in a plaid shirt and trainers, their hospitable smile about the brightest thing in here. There is some pink neon lighting illuminating the bar at the back of the room but despite the sun cracking the flags outside, it’s decidedly dark.
If I was to guess, I’d say this is a calculated decision designed to replicate the authentic Mexican street eating experience. However, in little old Heswall, we could do with a bit more light and visual vibrancy to make the space feel more finished.
That said, what’s lacking in the decor is most certainly made up for on our plates where colour comes in complete and utter delicious abundance. We’re nibbling our way through a basket of tortilla chips with salsa verde, pico de gallo and fresh guacamole (£5), clinking our Dos Equis beer and Painkiller cocktail, respectively.
The latter is an iteration of piña colada with homemade coconut cream and Plantation Rum. My cocktail choice had been a toss up between that, a mango margarita or a Jarritos pineapple soda so despite being a nice touch, the complimentary table water doesn't get a look in.
Drinks going down smoothly, we finally place our food order after some deliberation on how much is too much for two (hungry and greedy) people. Turns out some corn elote (£4), two tostadas and some chicken tacos (£7) is just about right after tortillas.
The star of the show for me turns out to be the corn elote, which is slightly blackened, smothered in chipotle mayo, dusted with chipotle powder and sprinkled with queso fresco. My idea of edible heaven. At this point, my sticky fingers could really use a side plate though - something I think should be non-negotiable anywhere that serves a share-style menu.
Close second for me is the Beyond chorizo tostada (£7) made with vegan mince, smooth black beans, avocado tomatillo and pickled red onions. Through my crunching and slurping, I can just about hear my partner-in-dine lip-smacking over the sushi-grade tuna tostada (£8) with chilli mango salsa, smoked chilli mayo and pickled chipotle. His idea of edible euphoria, clearly.
These guys really haven’t cut any corners when it comes to powerful, authentic flavour, echoed in our trio of lime-marinated chicken tacos with fresh avocado tomatillo and zingy onions.
If you aren’t into sharing some churros (£4.50) with me even after a small plate palooza, I am nacho friend. Oh God, here I go again. Never mind the Mexican’s wife, someone’s going to push me off the cliff tequil’ me. Anyway. Find your dessert stomach and suck it up because these crunchy little cinnamon sugar-dusted babies with their warm, doughy centre and silky chocolate dip are well worth the Gaviscon needed when you get home.
So, is Tahona a welcome addition to the Wirral? Absolutely. Have I booked another reservation for 48 hours later before I’ve even paid the bill? You bet. Does the venue need a bit of livening up in terms of light and decor? In my opinion, yes. But then who died and made me Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen?
Give this peppy little taqueria some more time to settle in and I bet it’ll be the taco the town. (Couldn’t resist, sorry.)
Unit 4, The Curve, 139 Telegraph Road, Heswall, Wirral CH60 7SE
The Scores
All scored reviews are unannounced, impartial, paid for by Confidentials and completely independent of any commercial relationship. They are a first-person account of one visit by one, knowledgable restaurant reviewer and don't represent the company as a whole.
Venues are rated against the best examples of their type: 1-5: saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9: Netflix and chill, 10-11: if you’re passing, 12-13: good, 14-15: very good, 16-17: excellent, 18-19: pure class, 20: cooked by God him/herself.
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Food
Tortilla chips 7, corn elote 8, Beyond Mexican chorizo tostada 8, tuna tostada 9, chicken tacos 7, churros 7.5
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Service
Friendly and attentive - but in need of some side plates
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Atmosphere
Chill, cool (vibes, not temp) and on the way to something great but still a bit dark and dingy.