Jersey: ‘A food and wellness haven just across the channel’

I enjoyed my trip to Guernsey back in April so much that when I was presented with the opportunity to visit its biggest sister of the Channel Islands, I was on the plane faster than you could say ‘Jersey black butter’. 

At 120 square kilometres (119.5 if you’re being pedantic), Jersey is the largest of the islands that make up the waters between England and France. 

During the Second World War, the island and three other Channel Islands (Guernsey, Alderney and Sark) were occupied by German forces until the war ended in 1945. 

Today though, it’s home to over 103,000 people. Most of whom are islanders that were born and raised here - the others are visitors that fell in love with the island’s bountiful wildlife, produce and scenery and never left. And, after visiting for myself, it’s hard not to want to become part of the latter. 

Even approaching the island overhead on my 15:40 EasyJet flight, I was enamoured. I suppose you could call it love at first sight. 

After just over an hour, the tires hit the runway and rumbled to a halt. I passed through ‘Nothing to Declare’ and was greeted by Lisa, a warm and friendly cabby from Domino, one of the Island’s local taxi firms. 

“Did you have a good flight? Where is it you’ve come from?” she smiled through the rear view mirror. 

“Manchester,” I replied. 

With almost perfect comical timing it then started spitting. 

“I see you’ve brought the weather with you,” Lisa joked with a smile. 

She wasn’t wrong. It’d been an awfully dreary summer this year and I’d actually been looking forward to catching some of the slightly better weather often associated with this side of the channel. But even with the grey clouds overhead threatening a storm, Jersey still looked pretty as a picture. 

I spent the scenic 10-minute journey falling in love with the bays, watching as older couples took their evening stroll after dinner and young families spending quality time together on the beach, dogs racing after sand-covered tennis balls and bounding into the waves to retrieve them, shaking their salty coats at their owners’ feet and looking up gleefully as if to say 'Again! again!'. It’s what movie moments are made of. 

My home for the weekend was L’Horizon Beach Hotel & Spa, located right on St Brelade's Bay, boasting panoramic views of the sea and surrounding cliff sides.

Part of Hand Picked Hotels, a beautiful collection of 21 privately-owned, luxury country houses and coastal retreats, L'Horizon Beach Hotel & Spa is a stylish and perfectly situated place to dine, unwind and explore.  

Built in 1850 by George Hicks, a colonel in the Bengal Army, the hotel has a hint of the Mediterranean about it whilst also boasting an unmistakably British vibe. L'Horizon's interior is timelessly classic and effortlessly chic, offering plenty of space for relaxing, natural light and unmissable views from every angle. 

As well as 106 bedrooms and AA rosette on-site restaurant The Grill, the hotel has its own spa complete with indoor pool, jacuzzi, gym and treatment rooms, plus a stunning Terrace for cocktails accompanied by unrivalled views of the golden sands and crystal-clear waters of St Brelade's Bay, making it a popular spot for both guests and islanders.

On their website Hand Picked Hotels describe it as 'an island retreat', encouraging guests to take things easy and recharge whilst enjoying the 'warm welcome and flawless hospitality.' 

I stayed in the Beauport suite (249), a large room with all the mod cons you could need plus its own lounge area and balcony off to the side providing picturesque sea views.

Stylishly kitted out to match the hotel's timelessly classic theme, whilst also comfortably modern, I felt well at home and settled in nicely, taking full advantage of the well-stocked tea and coffee bar as I brewed up and stepped out onto the deck to let that salty sea breeze brush against my cheeks. 

After breathing it all in, I got ready for dinner and headed down to The Grill - the hotel's on-site restaurant with two AA rosettes. 

Committed to sourcing the best ingredients available from the island's rich landscapes and crystal clear waters, The Grill showcases the flavours of Jersey, with seafood and fresh, seasonal vegetables featuring heavily on the menu. 

Healmed by Head Chef Luke Newton, The Grill aims to take diners on a ‘culinary journey that excites the palate by carefully matching some more exotic ingredients to create dishes that enhance the island’s finest produce.’

I chose the beautifully presented and incredibly fresh venison carpaccio followed by open ravioli dressed with carrot, truffle and candied sunflower seeds, topped off with a slice of baked cheesecake accompanied by a scoop of berry gelato. 

Paired with a fruity mocktail, some soothing classical music playing softly over the speakers, and the sound of other diners chattering quietly as cutlery makes music of its own against their plates, dinner at The Grill set the scene for a weekend of unwinding and indulging in great food.

After dinner, I made my way back to the Beauport suite and clambered into the Beauport room’s superking bed, sinking into the plush mattress as the duvet gave me a welcome cuddle. I closed my eyes and listened to the waves lapping at the shore just yards away from my window and for a moment time stopped - I’d never known peace and tranquillity quite like it, but knew I wanted to treasure the moment for as long as I could.

The next morning, I made my way downstairs bright and early ready to meet Pilates instructor Maria Jose ‘Joey’ Freeman and a small group of peers for a day of gentle exercise, healthy food, mindfulness and self care - a sneak peek of what to expect from her upcoming Pilates retreat at L’Horizon in November. 

We started the morning with a nutritious and beautifully presented breakfast buffet before sitting down with Joey to learn about pilates and what life events had led her to choose a career in fitness and rehabilitation through the power of pilates.

As a Doctor of Biomechanics, Joey has always been fascinated by the way the body works and took up Pilates following her diagnosis of dystonia, a neurological condition related to Parkinsons, after her neurologists advised that the form of exercise would help strengthen her muscles and combat the effects of her condition. 

Over time, regular practice gave Joey her confidence back and she became passionate about helping others discover the power of Pilates.

After getting familiar with each other, we took to our mats and stretched away our worries, aches and pains with a guided pilates session. Easy on the bones and joints, yet incredibly useful for improving mobility and flexibility, these sessions focus on breathing exercises and posture helping to gently tone the body. 

Feeling loose and relaxed, we headed out onto the terrace for some smoothies with a sea view before taking a walk along the pier.

Fully refreshed, we were then guided to the spa for further unwinding with a massage and some free time to spend in the facilities, including jacuzzi, sauna and swimming pool, before concluding the afternoon with a healthy lunch (kind of, I chose the chocolate fondant for my dessert as I couldn’t pass up the opportunity). 

By now, the mid-September sun had reared its head, so I took a 15-minute car ride over to Jersey’s Capital, Saint Helier, to do some further exploring. 

With a population of almost 36,000 - that’s more than a third of the island’s total population - St Helier is the largest settlement and Jersey’s only town. As the bustling nucleus of island life, here you’ll find cobbled streets filled with high street shops (both larger chains and small independents), restaurants, bars and nightlife and, as with many places surrounded by water, a pretty port. Small but plentiful, it doesn’t take too long to get around Saint Helier town centre on foot.

Having worked up an appetite, I headed back to L’Horizon, taking a short detour to explore Saint Brelade’s Bay’s cliff sides as the sun began to set over the sea, before freshening up and heading over to sister site, Grand Jersey Hotel & Spa to dine at the four AA-rosette awarded Tassili.

Tassili is a traditional fine dining restaurant serving seasonal and regional dishes made with creativity and a touch of flair, designed to take you on a culinary journey from the seas that surround the island to the mountains of the Pyrénées. 

Classy yet cosy and intimate, Tassili is a tasteful and elegant restaurant that makes special occasions that bit more special. 

I enjoyed one of Chef Nicolas Valmagna’s seasonal set menus, featuring expertly crafted and innovative dishes like the Jersey crab crumpet and turbot with saffron risotto - all of which was delicately assembled and carefully fused a variety of flavours that compliment each other beautifully. 

Part way through the meal the heavens opened outside, rain drumming against the windows with thunder and lightning only adding to the theatre of the evening’s meal. Each of my senses felt serenaded. A perfect moment I won’t forget in a hurry. 

Despite dining on my own, I didn’t feel like it. I was so incredibly well taken care of by GM Lewis and the rest of the team at Tassili that I didn’t have the chance to feel lonesome. 

I was sent back to L’Horizon with some complementary homemade kombucha as a digestif - a lovely touch.  

Since I was checking out this morning, I decided to take full advantage of my room’s sea view and enjoy breakfast from the comfort of the balcony, breathing in the sea air and listening to the waves crash against each other as I watched the paddle boarders, early morning swim clubs, and dogs and their owners frolicking on the beach. Paired with a hearty cooked breakfast, pastries and a pot of tea, I was in sensory heaven. 

I wasn’t ready to let go of that blissful feeling just yet, so took the short drive back to Grand Jersey Hotel & Spa for one final island meal - traditional afternoon tea in one of the cosy armchairs in the Champagne Lounge I’d been eyeing up the night before. 

Bar Manager Catherine welcomed me with the biggest smile before having me choose from a wide selection of loose leaf teas; I opted for the ‘Very Berry’ blend, a bright, fruity and full-bodied brew that’s flavour reminded me of red wine gums - very moreish indeed. 

Moments later, a perfectly pretty three-tiered afternoon tea arrived with everything from finger sandwiches to patisserie-style cakes and the all-important scones with Jersey black butter - all of which was absolutely lush. 

As I sat, sipping the last few mouthfuls of my tea and polishing off the remnants of a mini passionfruit panna cotta with a tiny spoon, I reflected on the trip. A short but sweet hop, skip and a jump over to this beautiful island that opened up a world of discovery, both of Jersey and of myself. 

It’s rare I get time like this to completely stop what I’m doing and be in the moment, surrounding myself with nature, good people and positive energy. A weekend visit to Jersey helped me take back some time for myself, slow down, and rediscover that inner sanctum that can be hard to find in big cities where everything can feel like it's travelling at a hundred miles per minute.

Like its sister island Guernsey, Jersey - St Brelade’s Bay, in particular - has secured a special place in my heart. And I don’t think it’ll be long until I’m back on that plane, clambering my way up that cliffside to take my soul back to its happy place. 

À bétôt, Jersey. Until next time.

Check out this lovely reel I made whilst on my travels. 

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Manchester Confidential (@mcrconfidential)

Follow Harley Young on X @Harley__Young

Get the latest news to your inbox

Get the latest food & drink news and exclusive offers by email by signing up to our mailing list. This is one of the ways that Confidentials remains free to our readers and by signing up you help support our high quality, impartial and knowledgable writers. Thank you!

Join our WhatsApp group

You can also get regular updates on news, exclusives and offers by joining the Manchester Confidential WhatsApp group.

Read next: Las Vegas beyond the strip: Natural beauty meets world-leading entertainment

Read again: Guernsey - great culture, food and an abundance of views