Horror novels, seaspray and cobbled streets: A winter weekend in Whitby

Whitby - the ‘birthplace’ of Dracula, home of the Goth Weekend, and arguably the most gorgeous British seaside setting. If you’re looking for a place on the Yorkshire coast with character, this is one with bags a-plenty. 

Like a magnet I’m drawn to its undeniable charm and, when I’m in a rut and in need of a little inspiration, I always find myself back on its cobbled streets. Besides, if it’s good enough to ignite the fire in Bram Stoker that led him to create the best-selling gothic novel of all time, it’s good enough for me.

And what with Nosferatu trending at the moment thanks to its remake released in cinemas last month, it never felt like more of a fitting time for this little goth to revisit one of her favourite spooky places (yes, sometimes the stereotypes do fit). 

To help me along on the 120 mile journey from Manchester even further up North, Toyota kindly matched me with their all-new C-HR Hybrid Plug-in.  

Combining stand-out styling with the world-leading efficiency that the Japanese brand is known and loved for, this redesign focuses on premium quality and sustainability. Staying true to the heritage of its predecessor, this car takes a huge leap forward boasting a wider and more confident stance whilst still sporting its distinctive coupe silhouette. 

It’s been described as an ‘environmental pathfinder’ for Toyota, as they’ve increased their use of recycled materials whilst taking on weight-saving measures and new production processes that help to reduce carbon emissions.

Unconventional yet ultra sleek and stylish-looking, it’s a real head-turner of a vehicle with its flush door handles, angular colour-contrasting tail end and panoramic roof that requires no sunshade. 

Inside, the touch-screen infotainment system neatly slots into the center console and is highly responsive with a good quality GPS whilst the suedette heated seats hug you in all the right places, ensuring premium-level comfort even during long journeys. You can personalise the C-HR too, with interior ambient lighting and a whopping 64 different colourway options to choose from. 

In electric mode it's practically silent and, in hybrid mode, doesn’t make much more noise either. Plus, with its Regeneration Boost feature, it uses braking energy to fuel the car on electric power for longer, meaning you can go further between charges. 

Equipped with plenty of tunes and scenic views, the two-and-a-half-hour drive sailed by and before we knew it Dave and I had arrived at the Yorkshire coast. 

Perfectly picturesque and somewhat untouched by time in places, Whitby has an undeniably quirky charm to it. Especially at this time of year when the clouds hang heavy in the dark and moody sky and the wind whistles its way through alleys and cobblestone streets, picking up waves and throwing them against rocks on the shoreline with an almighty crash. 

Whitby Abbey stands tall on the East Cliff, overlooking the town and casting an almighty shadow on the North Sea below in an almost intimidating manner. She’s almighty in both stature and semblance. Two stocky black shire horses graze on the hill below, further adding to the eerie character of this coastal town. 

You can almost imagine what life in medieval England would have been like here; fishing for your dinner as the waves thrash your boat from side to side before walking up the cobbled streets to the local tavern for an ale in front of a roaring fire.  

We pottered around both sides of the town, exploring twee and eccentric gift shops and those selling gothic wares in true Whitby fashion before making our way out to sea as far as the East Pier would let us and walking back again, soaked with seaspray and deserving of a well-earned fish and chips pitstop followed by a mocktail and a warm drink at the French-themed Cafe Montmartre.

Much to the readers disappointment, we gave The Dracula Experience on Marine Parade a miss, having done it back in 2020 after the initial lockdown. At the time, I was so busy focusing on following the one-way, six-feet-apart system that I forgot to look up for the most part (that or I was a wuss, afraid of one of the crude animatronics would come to life and get me) and, before I could say ‘The blood is the life!’, we’d been ejected out the back door onto the side street. 

It’s a good laugh, though, and a right of passage for any baby bat and vampire fanatic. If you go at the right time of year (July through to September) you can catch the live actors that inject a bit more thrill into the whole thing.  The clouds grew even darker above, perhaps Drac was offended by our choice to skip his exhibition and had begun to summon the rain, but it was no bother as it was nearly time to check in at our glorious abode for the evening. 

A quick stop off at the wonderfully whimsical The Little Fox Coffee & Bookshop for a fitting bedtime read later and we were on our way down the road to Sandsend.

Nestled between the wild North Sea and heather-draped North Yorkshire moors sits Saltmoore; an otherworldly estate that’s name pays homage to the landscapes that make up its home. 

Formerly known as Raithwaite Sandsend, the 19th century property and its land has been completely reworked and reimagined to bring an air of luxury to this part of the coast. 

Described as ‘a wellness-led sanctuary’, Saltmoore focuses on slowing down and reconnecting with nature whilst indulging in the finer things in life. Guests are encouraged to ‘embrace the passing of time, and let the wild tide lead the way.’ You have to admit, it all sounds rather wonderful. 

After driving for seven minutes we spotted the turn-off; ‘X’, or at least a sign reading ‘Saltmoore’ in a fancy curly font, marked the spot and led us down a long and windy pathway until we reached a limestone building with sage green bistro chairs and tables neatly sat to the right of it. Beautifully pruned potted pine trees stood ten feet apart, lined up at each set of french doors, and golf buggies with Saltmoore branding on them lined the driveway. 

We made our way through the imposing double doors and were greeted by a stunning barnhouse style reception - a quirky, tree-like bronze sculpture with lights on the end of each branch was hanging from the ceiling and four vintage chairs were arranged at either side of the check-in desk.

“Welcome to Saltmoore,” said one of the reception team members gleefully. “Can I interest you in a glass of sparkling tea?” 

“You absolutely can,” I responded with a smile. A nice touch that instantly puts you at ease and kickstarts your break as soon as you walk through the door, before you’ve even so much as checked in.  

Another member of the team then kindly took our bags and showed us to our room for the evening whilst telling us a bit more about the building, its grounds and the facilities available to us during our stay. 

The team at Saltmoore have a deep-rooted connection to the local area, making them experts in their field and the best people to ask for recommendations of where to go and what to see and do during your stay. It’s that undeniable Yorkshire friendliness and charm that makes extravagant stays like this one all the more worthwhile. 

We had the absolute pleasure of staying in the Gorse Suite; one of Saltmoore’s four uniquely curated suites featuring a generous living space, freestanding bathtub, emperor bed, walk-in rainfall shower and double sink, and additional dining and lounge areas to boot. 

Steeped in elegance, the ochre-drenched colour palette gives a subtle nod to the golden blooms of the gorse shrub found throughout the estate, bringing elements of the outside in and reconnecting its residents with nature. 

As well as stylish design features, guests can expect all the amenities you could need and want from a luxury stay including a smart TV, mini bar, tea and coffee area, Egyptian cotton sheets GHD hair dryer, Wildsmith skin products and other additions like pillow mist and bath salts by Olverum. 

Another wholesome and well-received touch was the homemade seasonal cordials and fresh cookies wrapped in green ribbon alongside a welcome card and FAQs letter. 

This particular suite isn’t suitable for pets, but there are some rooms and public areas of the estate that are dog-friendly. There’s even a number of toys and treats available to purchase for your four-legged friend down in the reception area. 

After settling into our spectacular room, scoffing our cookies and making good use of all the lavish additions, it was time to make our way down to the spa known as ‘The Sanctuary at Saltmoore’. 

Complete with its own indoor and spa pools, sauna and steam rooms, ice bath, relaxation room and even a cryo chamber, there’s lots of room for guests to relax, recharge and take a moment to soak in their woodland surroundings through the floor-to-ceiling windows that offer a tranquil view to daydream over. 

Use of the spa is included in the stay, but I’d recommend booking a slot ahead of your visit as it can get busy at peak times. Alternatively, a thoughtfully curated selection of treatments are also available if you’re looking to make your stay extra memorable and special. 

Feeling fully rejuvenated, we made our way back to our suite to get ready for dinner in the Brasserie and Orangerie Bar. 

Gorgeously decorated with sage green fabrics, rich wood furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows and a floral arrangement suspended from the ceiling, The Orangerie Bar makes for a picturesque dining spot which seems like it would be utterly magical in the summer.  

With seasonal menus curated by Head Chef Adam Maddock in collaboration with Consultant Chef Tommy Banks, owner of the Michelin-starred The Black Swan at Oldstead, dishes are designed to nourish the soul with the Northern values of both quality and quantity in mind.

We ordered some of the Saltmoore focaccia to share as we pondered over the menu, along with a rhubarb fizz mocktail for myself and a pint of local lager for Dave. The focaccia was generously salted and served warm alongside a rosemary oil for dipping - absolutely perfect. 

I opted for the Mangalitza cumberland sausage with apple butter, mash, crispy sage and onion gravy - a hearty and warming dish, just what was needed on a chilly January evening. 

Dave chose something equally as Northern and soul-soothing; beef cheek suet pudding with king cabbage, wild mushrooms, red wine sauce and horseradish creme fraiche. 

We polished both off with delight and left pleasantly full and satisfied, deciding to swap dessert for a nightcap by the roaring fire in the cosy Lounge Bar instead. 

After what can only be described as the best night’s sleep I’ve had for as long as I can remember, Dave and I bid a sad farewell to the Gorse Suite and made our way down to The Brasserie for breakfast. 

An array of freshly baked croissants, cruffins and other pastries sat alongside fresh fruit salads, granolas and compotes ready for helping yourself to as you browse the hot food menu and your order is taken from the comfort of your table. 

I decided it was only right to go for the Full Saltmoore Breakfast; a nice helping of high-quality,  produce from Oldstead cooked to perfection with eggs cooked to your liking (poached for me) whilst Dave decided to take a healthier approach, ordering avocado with eggs on sourdough. Both solid ways to start the day in their own right. 

Ready to tackle the day with full and satisfied bellies, we reluctantly handed over our keycard and said au revoir to Saltmoore, begrudgingly returning to reality. Luckily, the stay was so beneficial for the mind, body and soul that it made the thought of being sardined on the rush hour tram into the office the following morning all that more bearable. 

Since returning, I’m yet to write a best-selling gothic novel (watch this space, there’s still time). But, what I have done is learnt to appreciate the beauty in the great outdoors - even on those tumultuously unpredictable winter mornings -  and take things at a slower pace, the Saltmoore way. 

Saltmoore, Sandsend Road, Whitby YO21 3ST

Follow Harley Young on X @Harley__Young

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