Harley Young explores the best Luxembourgish eateries worth visiting next time you’re in the cliffside capital
When you think of Luxembourg you probably think of it as a fairytale fortress with its many castles, spanning across luscious green landscapes that look like they’ve leapt straight out of a picturebook, but does its food scene spring to mind?
Well if it doesn’t, it should, because this is one of the few countries I’ve visited where the food has been consistently impressive - no ‘meh’ meals in sight on this trip, just top tier Luxembourgish scran.
If you, too, fancy eating your way around this country of castles, then read on for some great recommendations.
Tastes of the traditional: Um Dierfgen
Specialising in traditional Luxembourgish cuisine, Um Dierfgen is a warm and welcoming restaurant right in the middle of the city, where food is served in hearty and homely fashion. The portions are generous and the food here has a rustic feel.
Here, I tried my first portion of Kniddelen (a sort of flour dumpling) served with smoked bacon and garnished with some fresh diced chives. It’s a dish that’s subtle in flavour but very filling and has a texture very similar to gnocchi.
My fiancé ordered the Päerdssteak (horse steak) - a meat that was actually banned across Europe in the eighth century due to its association with pagan rituals at the time. Luckily for David, the French brought hippophagy back to Luxembourg 10 centuries later, meaning he could now enjoy it served in a rich oniony dressing with a large bowl of fries. He described it as tasting somewhat sweeter than your typical beef steak and more like a venison instead. An interesting one to try if you are feeling curious.
Restaurant-hopping and landmark-spotting: Sightseeing.Lu Food Tours
Looking to cover off multiple spots in one and explore Luxembourg city’s most notable landmarks, architecture and hidden gems while you’re at it? A food tour with Sightseeing.Lu is a great way to explore the local gastronomy and learn a little more about the country’s history.
Led by a passionate local guide, these tours take around three hours and are fairly intimate, with only around 10 guests per booking, meaning you have ample time to ask any questions you might have about the restaurants or landmarks you visit on the way.
We stopped off at visited five different foodie pitstops in total, spanning everything from a bakery that’s been serving up exceptional quiches for over 100 years, to a city centre haunt that adds a modern twist to traditional Luxembourgish dishes, and even an artisanal chocolatiers handmaking decadent truffles that absolutely blew my mind. But more about that later.
Fine dining the French way: Bistro Des Capucins
Described as a ‘proper French diner’, Bistro Des Capucins is a dreamy, contained spot with its own secluded terrace on Passage Marc Olinger, sharing walls with what was part of a former Capuchin monastery.
There’s a curated selection of natural wines on offer here, should you want to lean even further into the Europeanesque aesthetic of whiling away the evening in the courtyard with a few glasses as the sun is setting. But, since I don’t drink, I opted for one of their alcohol free suggestions instead; the Iessi Negroni, which was just as delightful an option for doing the same with.
The dishes here are beautifully presented, flavourful and designed to move with the seasons, making the most of the local produce available. I particularly enjoyed the tomato and peach salad served bathing in eau de tomate - light, fresh and slightly tart in places.
The Luxembourgish beef sirloin served with Chanterelle mushrooms and Diane sauce is worth shouting about, too. The one I had was cooked to perfection, rich and indulgent - despite not being served with any sides, it's deceptively filling and a little goes a long way with this dish.
The team here are fantastic too, often going above and beyond to ensure you have a memorable dining experience.
Strongholds and spirits: Beaufort Castle
It wouldn’t be a trip to Luxembourg without marveling at at least one of the country's impressive castles now, would it?
Not only can you explore the fortress’s medieval ruins but you can also try Luxembourg’s very own liqueur produced in the castle’s cellars. First brewed in 1932 by Edmond Linckels, the last private owner of the estate, Cassero is made using local blackcurrants and drunk on its own, with cherry brandy or, if you fancy going all medieval with it, mixed with hot water to form a grog.
Unbelievable artisan chocolates: Genaveh
This artisanal chocolate spot was a stop on our aforementioned food tour, but I was so impressed that I believe it should be a staple visit on any foodie’s Luxembourg itinerary - especially if you’re as obsessed with chocolate as I am.
For just over 20 years, Genaveh has been providing the people of Luxembourg and its visitors with exceptional handcrafted chocolates, pralines, ganaches, and spreads. It’s definitely on the pricier side than your typical household name confectioners, but the quality is evident from the very first taste. All chocolate is made with 100% Luxembourgish milk and cream alongside carefully sourced cocoa beans, giving a rich and velvety feel that just melts on the tongue.
Basically, I haven’t tasted pralines quite like this and I’m not sure I will again. The hot chocolate, which you can sample at their shop in the heart of their city, is also otherworldly.
Fellow chocolate addicts…be sure to stock up on this one.
A fusion of countries and cuisines: Aal Eechternoach
On the edge of Luxembourg, just a hop, skip and a jump from the German border is Echternach - Luxembourg’s oldest town lined with cobblestone streets and even some traditional medieval architecture that has stood the test of time, including The Abbey of Echternach; a Benedictine monastery founded back in the seventh century.
But it's not only deep-rooted tradition here in this neck of the woods, Aal Eechternoach is a restaurant that fuses that tradition with modern cuisine made using local and regional ingredients. The menu is ever-changing and there’s plenty of vegan and vegetarian options as well as a whole list of alcohol free alternatives to choose from.
I ordered the ‘Sweet Goat’ pinsa made with local goat cheese from Baltes farm and honey from Beiefritz, topped with figs and caramelized walnuts for added crunch. A lighter alternative to pizza which was very welcome on a surprisingly warm mid September afternoon.
David ordered the Aal Eechternoach XL Burger which towered above his plate and kept him well fed for the rest of the day.
Pubs gone posh: The First Floor, Scott’s Pub
You could easily be forgiven for assuming that there’s no restaurant to be found here and this is just your typical traditional boozer in the historic Grund district of Luxembourg City - after all, from downstairs, that’s exactly what Scott’s Pub looks like.
But venture upstairs to the aptly named The First Floor and you’ll find a stylish gastropub serving up sustainable small plates designed to be shared by candlelight alongside expertly-crafted cocktails and mocktails made to compliment the seasonal dishes you’re about to tuck into.
As we were approaching the autumn equinox during our visit, we were lucky enough to tuck into plates featuring the root vegetables and squashes that were coming into season, including a delightful plate of pickled beetroot, radish and ground roses.
Go with your server’s recommendations - you won’t be disappointed.
To find out more about the country of Luxembourg, its history and its many bars, restaurants and attractions, head to www.visitluxembourg.com.
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