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Every neighbourhood should have an Owens

We talk about neighbourhood restaurants a lot on Confidential, to make sure we cover special places in the suburbs as well as in the city centre. But we think that Owens, in Childwall Fiveways, might be the most definitive neighbourhood restaurant we’ve ever visited.

Owens has been in business for over two decades. Owner Peter Horsley, a hospitality veteran who has fingers in many pies, has years of experience looking after customers. New visitors discover this local gem all the time, thanks to word of mouth recommendations, but generations of regular customers have celebrated happy occasions, get-togethers or simple mid-week dinners at Owens. The reservations book is littered with first-name-only bookings, proving what a great relationship has been built up with customers over the years.

Confidential went along to meet Peter and sample a few dishes. We’d been standing around chatting and taking photographs of the food, when Peter offered to stick another loaf in the oven as the one on the table had gone cold. That’s when we started to understand the level of detail and pride Peter has in the food he serves. 

20170322 Owens Bread Olives
Baked artisan bread, whipped balsamic butter and a dish of proper marinated olives

The artisan bread incidentally, comes from a local bakery owned by Lee Hollywood, brother of Great British Bake Off judge Paul and is served with whipped balsamic butter and a bowl of proper marinated olives.

Owens menu has been meticulously planned to make the pricing structure simple, portion sizes generous and the choice pretty much what people want to eat – a simple concept many restaurants surprisingly fail to get right. They might offer quality dining and white linen table cloths, but nothing is fancy, gimmicky or intimidating. Peter has scoured the region for the best local suppliers; his long-standing butcher supplies Welsh beef, 28 day aged steaks, Packington free range pork, free range chicken and sustainable farmed pheasant.

20170322 Owens Roasted Roulade Of Free Range Belly Pork
Roasted roulade of free range belly pork fresh sage crust, crackling, roasting juices and classic roasties

We’d describe Owen’s menu as Modern British but with a continental twist; for example risotto might be made with barley instead of Arborio rice and a warming five bean stew with wild boar sausages might be enhanced by smoky chorizo and red onion. Spinach and fennel bhajis with delicate spices are one of their most popular first courses.

20170322 Owens Spinach Fennel And Red Onion Bhajis
Spinach, fennel and red onion bhajis, fresh mango and lime salsa

All starters are priced at £5.50 with only a couple of higher priced special options such as king prawns with wild garlic pesto, or a garnished platter of award winning British Trealy Farm cured charcuterie. One of our favourites was the totally indulgent Cropwell Bishop brûlée – a blue cheese paté with homemade pear and walnut marmalade and a thin layer of caramelised sugar on top which balanced out the creamy but characteristically sharp cheese. 

20170322 Owens Cropwell Bishop Blue Cheese Brulee
Cropwell bishop blue cheese brulee and pear and walnut marmalade

Although Peter keeps the most popular items, such as grilled steaks, on the menu all year round, he introduces some new seasonal dishes three or four times a year. The latest menu celebrates the coming of spring with fresh flavours like asparagus hummus on crostini with toasted pine nuts and truffle oil, as well as homemade cod and salmon fishcake with Charlotte potato salad.

All main courses are served with individual portions of fresh steamed vegetables as standard. Owens caters for all tastes, from hearty dishes like treacle soaked, four-hour braised beef or chicken fillet in melting cheese velouté, to lighter dishes such as wine poached loin of salmon with hollandaise or the popular sea bass fillets with cherry tomatoes, basil vinaigrette and hand cut chips.

20170322 Owens Greens Side
Flame grilled sea bass fillets cherry tomatoes with a basil vinaigrette, hand cut chips and fresh steamed vegetables

We enjoyed roast roulade of free range pork belly topped with a fresh sage crust with a shard of perfect crackling, roasting juices and classic roast potatoes – the pride Peter showed in his roasties was another giveaway in how important good food is to Owens – you’ve got to get the basics right after all.

Most items (such as chutneys, bread and pastry - a large portion of which are gluten free) are handmade on the premises or created to Peter’s specifications by local artisan suppliers.

Our advice would be to make sure you leave room for dessert. ‘A sweet experience’ brings classics such as sticky toffee apple pudding and a warm almond frangipane tart topped with wild blueberry compote. Chocolate lovers will love Owens chocolate and hazelnut fondant cake with its gooey centre and the generous lemon curd and yoghurt fool is a popular choice for those wanting to round off the meal with something lighter.

20170322 Owens Wild Blueberry Frangipane Tart
Wild blueberry frangipane tart and clotted cream ice cream

There’s always the option of indulging in a cheese board with three carefully selected (and often award winning) varieties from their well respected supplier. On our visit, the current selection included smooth Barkham Blue, Morn Dew from Somerset and soft Bath brie with crackers from Peter’s Yard, honeyed grapes and homemade celery and walnut chutney.

20170322 Owens Artisan British Cheese
Artisan British cheese selection

So if you’d like to put your faith in a hospitality professional and treat yourself to a generous, well cooked and delicious meal in friendly surroundings – make your way over to Owens on Childwall roundabout. You’ll be on first name terms in no time.

Owens are offering 25% off their food menu for bookings made before 7.30pm Monday to Friday and before 7pm on Saturdays. To take advantage of this book here.

Images: Georgie Glass