'Just my sort of place': Papillon, Hope Street, reviewed

What: Papillon

Where: 31 Hope Street, L1 9BQ

Food/ Drink type: Brunch, lunch, cocktails, wine and dining

When: Mon - Fri: 11am - 11pm // Sat and Sun: 9am - 11pm

Independent or chain: Independent

Popping in somewhere for lunch can be a tricky business. Time is tight, menus err on the side of sensible, and once you've stepped through the doors it's hard to turn back. 

I was on Hope Street on Monday afternoon, the gowns of graduation day blowing fitfully in the strong breeze, and needed somewhere to pop into. Papillon appeared. Really I was just after a sandwich, but soon felt there could be more to this place than a good butty.

Decor

The interior of Papillon is exactly my kind of thing; loose, laid-back and slightly freewheeling decoration - complete with the obligatory hanging plants. They've dressed up a room without gutting out the ghosts of what was here before - it has shades of a 70s cafe that's been hitting the books over lunch. 

It seems perfectly suited to cater to your appetites any time of the day: a brunch to slowly winch you from the depths of a sore head; a relaxed spot for long and winding lunches, or somewhere to go for cocktails, ready to make the same mistakes all over again. If I lived in the neighbourhood, I reckon this would be my place.

The Main Event

I was deep into late lunch territory, where a banquet of breadiness or the prospect of a bowl of pasta is a little foolhardy. Something to help you sail through the afternoon is what's needed. With that in mind, I chose the beer battered fish finger sandwich with tartar sauce (£10). I know the words 'beer battered' might set those sails flagging a bit, but sod it. Mondays must be gotten through. 

I was expecting a reasonably hearty but largely straightforward fish finger sandwich, but what arrived was much more substantial, which, for a tenner, I'll never sniff at. 

A brioche bun arrived with a knife plunged into the middle, golden brown goujons spilling out of the sides and a liberal layer of tartar sauce visible. A butty of Arthurian proportions. When you tweak the individual components of something like a sandwich it does make all the difference. The addition of mushy peas wasn't essential for me, but I can see how that would tick an extra box for many. Add to that a pint of Camden Hells (£5.65) and I'd call that an ideal lunch.

Judgement Day

Papillon hasn't reinvented the wheel here, just kept it spinning at a very pleasant pace. If I'd had more time on my hands and some dining company, I'd have gone full Fleet Street Long Lunch and tried a table of small plates - especially the duck and orange pâté - and at least a bottle of wine, which Papillon seems to know its way around (whites; viognier, sauvignons, rioja blanco, riesling and a South African. Reds; two Spanish numbers, a French malbec and amongst others a very enticing Portuguese tinto).

I wasn't expecting what I found in Papillon; a fully-formed neighbourhood spot, seemingly fleet-footed enough to deal with any time of day. I would love to return soon to a menu with a bit more bravery and sense of adventure, because when I next pop in it'll be for more than a butty. 

Papillon, 31 Hope St, L1 9BQ

Papillon is on Confidential Guides