WHEN Chaophraya sailed into Liverpool, back in 2008, it was an auspicious moment - at least for lovers of Thai food.
Not only did one sense that the city's restaurant scene was on the up but there was a confounding new word - Chaophraya - to learn to spell and pronounce. Truly a Capital of Culture!
Sure we had pad thais and jungle curries already, some very good from the likes of Lark Lane’s Chilli Banana, but with its opulent decor and location in the brand new Liverpool One, Chaophraya raised the Bangkok bar a few notches more.
That’s without mentioning the shiny, happy looking people delivering top drawer dinner, or its rather posh Palm Sugar cocktail lounge next door.
The waters of the river have flowed a long way in eight years, and Chaophraya, which takes its name from the main waterway in Thailand, stretches into Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Manchester and Leeds.
Maeklong platterMoving with the times, Chaophraya last week launched a rebrand, or, in their words: “A revolutionary new menu, heightened service levels and a full change to its logo and signage”.
After a couple of Lunya’s fino sherries had done their livener worst, Confidential marched across the green, green grass of Chavasse Park to snap and savour this new joy.
“Fusing culinary imagination with fine cuisine, Chaophraya’s new menu will deliver a sophisticated edge to Thai dining," they proclaim,
“Diners will notice the influence of certain Thai provinces, including Chiang Mai, the Maeklong River, Khanchanaburi and the banks of the Chaophraya River in Bangkok.”
And what temptation awaits the jaded palate: chamber aged sirloin steak cooked on a Himalayan salt block, soft shell crab served on a bed of mango salad. Then there were Thai Tacos and Phad Thai served in a contemporary way.
Wait a minute: Thai tacos?
Moving swifty on, there are no chopsticks. Such tools are only used with Thai noodles, you fools.
Instead a spoon and fork are presented at the sunken table where a bright, floral Adobe Alsace Gerwurtztraminer (£25 and the very thing for spicy food), is used to sink a colourful Maeklong platter (£18.50) of chicken satay, prawn and pork dumplings, chicken spring rolls and sweetcorn cakes.
Green chicken curry (£12.50)There are also the classics, and let's face it, you won't go far wrong with a zingy, hot and creamy green chicken curry (£12.50).
One does not encounter a fish skewered with a whole lemongrass root very often. Well here’s one, and it’s a good eight inch whopper too. It’s quite a feat of assemblage, don't you think, impaling its way through robust chunks of sea bass? And there is plenty of music to accompany it on the plate: coriander root, galangal and lime leaves, fresh chilli and lime sauce and a salad of yellow soy beans, sugar snap peas, choisum, chillies and mint.
Coconut rice (£4.50), in a plantain leaf parcel, also looks the marvellous part.
Top tip: Don’t try to eat the skewer. That's just mad.
*Dish of the week: Pla Ga Pong Neung Manao, £17.50, from Chaophraya’s new menu. It was a hosted visit, so make up your mind via our own pictures which we took on the night.
