Sarah Cotterill heads to the historic venue to sample the menu from street food superstars, Grilling Me Softly
As business names go, Grilling Me Softly is up there with those double-take worthy windows –Kurl Up And Dye on the A64, Saltd & Batterd on Woodhouse Lane, Tyrannosaurus Pets in Kirkstall. A wordsmith and a music lover, Chef Anthony Ashton brings his puns, buns, bits and beats to an iconic venue revamped to celebrate its 25th birthday.
Fresh off the back of their popular Hip Hop Brunch series hosted at Stage Coffee house with legendary mixologist Sam Greedy, alongside kitchen takeovers at Northern Monk and regular roasts at Crowd Of Favours, Grilling Me Softly certainly know how to give the people what they want. And what they want is a snack that slaps. In quick double time.
For full flavour, with minimal fuss, dishes are prep heavy, so that service can be speedy. Ideal for those wanting a pre-show bite to eat with pals. Ashton reveals how this was part of his motivation. “I feel the menu really sits with the vibe of the place. With such a mixed demographic, the needs of each diner are very different. We have tried to put a menu together that reflects that - a casual dining experience that can cater for the gig-goer, the business lunch, or someone coming for something a little bit more decadent post-theatre.”
Thankfully, The Wardrobe is situated in Theatreland. Except up here, you’re more likely to see Hansel & Gretel than Hamilton, adjacent to Northern Ballet and Leeds Playhouse. But despite the plethora of performances playing within a square mile of the venue, at 7pm mid-week a queue snakes around the block for the chamber pop politics of Scottish singer-songwriter Hamish Hawk. And he’s in fine company. At the end of the month The Vaccines deliver two sell out sets, with Gossip and Tom Walker coming up on stage in September. There’ll be cutting edge comedy, and residencies from the likes of local lass Corinne Bailey Rae.
Inside, a dewy coat of forest green paint daubes the walls, the scent just about masked by the smoky samples from under the pass. Hanging plants dribble from the ceiling, framing a huge birthday mural celebrating when The Wardrobe first opened its doors in 1999. “We threw a big party on the 20th with a few throwbacks from over the years,” General Manager Ryan North said. “Jazz bands, DJ’s, and even break dancers of old…inviting all the people that have made The Wardrobe a success over the years.”
To mark this milestone, on the last Friday of each month they’ll be pouring free pints for the first twenty-five punters through the door. Thanks to Camden Brewery, they’ve fitted a completely new cellar line to ensure that the beer is consistently chilled.
“This gave us the chance to have a little freshen up inside the bar,” confirms North, “which was perfectly timed with the launch of Grilling Me Softly, and our 25th Anniversary shows. We have given the place a lick of paint, installed a beautiful new bar top, beer fonts, coffee machine and some brilliant new lighting.” His personal highlight? “I would be lying If I said that anything other than the new draught system was my favourite feature, but the new back bar and lighting come a close second.”
And with a food offering full of comforting favourites too, Ashton’s steaks and bakes are proving a hit with regulars. Chargrilled burgers come squashed between soft Kaiser rolls with mounds of hand-cut fries. Sandwiches and salads make the most of the produce available on our doorstep.
“I have to say Leeds simply has an abundance of awesome suppliers,” Ashton enthuses. “Kirkgate Market being the Mecca for most of these spots. I’m truly blessed as a chef to be able to have such a wonderful resource at my disposal. It means we can keep things fresh and seasonal.” Citing Tarbetts, Karparty, Hayes, and JP Johnston as some of his standout suppliers, there’s no end to the creativity on offer. “If I could have it my way the world would be full of seasonal small plates and the best local fish ever.”
Perhaps it was those chip-shop plaice-based puns that had him inspired after all.
Check out upcoming events at The Wardrobe here and the Grilling Me Softly menu here
