What's right, what's wrong, and was it worth the train fare?

THE last time Gordo reviewed Gusto he promised, Arnie-style, 'I'll be back.' The waiting-on staff have probably been crapping themselves ever since, dreading the day The Fat One returns in a pin-stripped suit with a notebook, pen and a gobful of cheery insults. 

Last week, he finally put them out of their misery with a surprise visit to Gusto Leeds rather than Gusto Manchester (nobody's safe). This being 2017, pens and paper are a bit dated, so he got one of his assistants to film his thoughts instead (watch it above folks, he's looking dapper).

Gordo has written about Gusto's mussels cooked with white wine, cream and garlic before (£8.50), but that wasn't going to stop him writing about them again. Juicy, plump and gorgeous, they should have their own x-rated Tumblr blog. He'll set one up for them if they want (for a small monthly fee). That sauce was pretty dunkable too.

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Other highlights were the carnivore pizza (£13.95) with its big bites of meatballs and topping that gets all over your chin, and that grande deli board (£14.95) with piles of glistening prosciutto and soppressa, and generous helpings of goats cheese and dolcelatte.

The belly pork (£14.95) was everything he wanted it to be. Slow-cooked for a creamy texture, with an apple puree that cut through the fattiness. Crackling on top, as it should be.

But again, it was the fish that put Gusto on a pedestal in Gordo's eyes. The seafood tagliatelle (£14.25) could have done with a little less time in the pan to keep the pasta al dente, but other than that, it was spot on. Very authentic with a beautiful sweetness to the sauce.

The sea bass baked in salt (£18.95) was the stand-out dish of the day. You might expect something this good if you were eating on the front in Cannes, but not in Leeds. It'll be Gordo's 'Dish of the Month' for June, unless something very special finds its way onto his plate in the next few days. 

So, Gusto Leeds, it's well worthy of your attention. It's a great place, this. Go try it.

Book a table

Gusto, 10 Greek Street, Leeds, LS1 5RU. 0113 200 5920.

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