THERE is a Thai phrase, Gan Gin Gan Yuu, which means “as you eat, so you are”.
It’s a bit like the well known “you are what you eat”, but this goes one more; that you define yourself by your approach to food. Think on that next time you look in the mirror after that midnight stop at the kebab stop.
That favourite of London town, Busaba Eathai, opens its doors in Liverpool today after a dress rehearsal, or soft launch, over the weekend.
Hanover Street is where you will find this temple of feelgood food: coconut, galangal, lemongrass, nam pla, lime leaves, chillies and all the wonders of the eastern world that go into Thai cookery.
Amid the dark wood and bronze Buddhist deities, colours are blue and gold. Service is smiling, skilled and helpful, brought by a team of slick and seasoned professionals who you may recognise from other city restaurant adventures.
Nothing in Busaba Eathai is dumbed down for the shy Brit sensibilities: flavours and colours are bold and fresh. Alongside the comfort of a piquant and creamy green chicken curry there are progressive dishes: Thai calamari, with ginger and green peppercorns; Mussaman duck curry, with its rich and aromatic spices; and the Sen chan pad Thai, which enhances the Bangkok favourite with crabmeat and green mango.
Executive Chef Jude SangsidaIt’s all been conceived by Executive Chef Jude Sangsida who was keeping a close and calming watch on the Liverpool kitchen when we went on Friday.
Anyone can do the same, it’s an open plan kitchen after all. Stir fries, soups, salads and curries are quickly prepared and brought out into a sunny room with floor to ceiling windows. But no looking out of them into the chaos of shoppers and traffic: the ethos of Busaba Eathai is sookjai. which, in the world of the Buddhist is about avoiding everyday chaos that distracts you.
“Instead, focus on taking life as it comes and creating your own reality,” they say.
We will be doing just that this weekend when we give the cocktail menu a good going over at the opening party.
But first, here are some pictures we took of lunch. The little bit of Bangkok was all bang on.
*Next week: a liberal helping of monastic chanting for the official blessing of the building. Honest.
Thai calamari ginger and green peppercorn £6.95
Pandan chicken with dark soy and sesame sauce £6.25
Goong tohd breaded king prawns with chilli lime sauce £6.95
Classic pad Thai: rice noodles, king prawns, dried shrimp, tofu, egg, peanuts, beansprouts, £9.50
Green chicken with pea aubergine and corn £11.95
Char-grilled duck breast with Chinese broccoli, tamarind sauce and sticky rice £14.50
Pad Thai jay, rice noodles, broccoli, tofu, courgettes, French beans, peanuts, beansprouts £8.65
Ice cream sundae: coconut, Thai tea and vanilla ice cream with crumbled cookies, strawberry or mango sauce £4.95
Chocolate fondant (v) served warm with coconut ice cream and chilli chocolate sauce £6.55
Refreshing beerBusaba Eathai, Website here
Unit 2 Liverpool One
53-55 Hanover St
Liverpool, L1 3DN
0151 541 1770
Open
Monday – Thursday
12pm – 11pm
Friday
12pm – 11.30pm
Saturday
12pm – 11.30pm
Sunday
12pm–10.30pm
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