VERY much like Alexander McQueen’s designs in ethic, Vivienne Westwood’s are ultimately a little bit scruffy. Yes, I know, they're also exquisitely tailored with beautiful bold patterns and supreme workmanship, but you can’t deny the messy, individual edge that makes the brand accessible to everyone - even a trash-fash, charity shop stalker like me.
There is a recognisable and distinctive Westwood style that embraces individuality, does not follow fashion, and encourages you in wearing it, to do the same.
Having heard it was now in stock, I merrily trotted along to Selfridges exchange Square in Manchester to check out the new spring/summer 2012 collection. Up on the second floor is the Anglomania collection. Considered very much as a way into Westwood (not a grand road lined with large oak trees, I might add), Anglomania is an affordable alternative to her other lines.
Vivienne Westwood at Selfridges Exchange Square
Each season is based around the same set of staple items – drape dresses which can be worn as long t-shirts, wide necked blazers, angled skirts, slim cut trousers – all refreshed and revamped for the new season. Only Westwood doesn’t ever follow trends and therefore does not produce collections that include, what you thought was, this season’s style.
Subsequently, despite the Mystic Meg’s of fashion foreseeing an early 2012 laced in pastel shades, Westwood’s collection includes unexpected black, sparkled velour, shades of beige, moss green, navy blue and more heavy printed tassels than you can shake a golden orb at. Consequently, if your s/s is donned in Westwood, you will not blend into the crowd and Dame Viv will most likely be rather pleased about that too.
Stamping itself all over the collection is a heavy use of sharp Oxford stripes, a light spattering of staple check and gingham, the introduction of a bold tassel motif and the re-emergence of her squiggle design, particularly in the accessories.
Vivienne Westwood At Selfridges Exchange Square
The squiggle is also repeated in the jeans Westwood created in collaboration with Lee which you can find in Selfridges' menswear department. It lines the inside of a jet black pair of denims also emblazoned with a diamond studded Westwood orb on the back pocket – all yours for £125. In ‘chazzer’ shop terms, this is pricey, but from a designer perspective, it’s the bargain of the century.
Westwood, a long-term campaigner against the ecological and ethical side effects of fast fashion, has repeatedly said ‘Buy less, choose well.’ It was in fact printed across her s/s 2011 Gold Label campaign T-shirt and this year it’s ‘Trees Save Lives.’ For somebody whose business is to sell clothes, Dame Viv is actually telling us to buy less which is commendable.
She was also recently, and widely, reported to have said “People have never looked so ugly” in reference to the lack of choice on the high street. Clearly, Westwood’s design principle is very much based on individuality, buying well and making it last.
'Westwood's collection includes black, sparkled velour.'
Despite my own obsession with second hand and vintage, I totally agree with Dame Viv here. I have a Westwood Red Label classic white, angled shirt. It’s about three years old yet looks as sharp as ever and could comfortably sit alongside her s/s 2012 collection. This isn’t because Westwood is old fashioned, but rather because she is all style.
There is a recognisable and distinctive Westwood style that embraces individuality, does not follow fashion, and encourages you in wearing it, to do the same. Alongside the black Lee’s are several updated MAN classics (her male Red Label) alongside some key Gold Label pieces. These well-made, mixed-up, unisex items really sum up Westwood. For example, her MAN Gold Label Heart Gaia T-Shirt – a long, oversized, angular cut, black T-shirt awash with a huge red heart – would look just as good on a woman, belted in with heels, as on a man, quiffed-up in skinny jeans. Less ‘one size fits all’ and more ‘these are my designs, now go and make them your own.’
'These well-made, mixed-up, unisex items really sum up Westwood.'
On to accessories, and this dandy lot is the reliably outlandish collection of bold checked bags and purses, some impressive and deathly jewelry designs and an unusual set of cufflinks thought initially to be taps until I heard the person next to me laugh at their phallic shape and I realised they were in fact penis’. There are also some truly honey-pot heels, sculpted and smooth like they were made for Miss Piggy, and almost Regency style plastic pumps.
And with that, I skipped on my merry way – full of stylistic inspiration and a strong urge to button up all my clothes at a jaunty angle. I didn’t buy anything, but I fully intend to and have worn my Red Label shirt three times since - each in a very, very different way. I think Dame Viv would approve.
More of Anne Louise Kershaw's musings can be found on her blog: www.annelouisekershaw365.com
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All images © Anne Louise Kershaw
These Westwood cufflinks are definitely not taps!
